20 or 30 MOA

[C-dub]

Several months ago I got a very nice AR-10 from TAM. Today I ordered the scope. 6-24x50 Vortex Viper PST

Then I was going to order this Bopro mount, http://swfa.com/Bobro-Precision-Optic-3 ... 76464.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and realized I didn't know what MOA rise to order. I've read a little and think I should get either 20 or 30 MOA, but am not sure. I would like to zero this scope at 200 yards and still be able to shoot from 50 or 100 up to 1000. I don't know where I'd shoot at 1000 yards yet, but it would sure be nice to be able to if the chance ever presented itself. However, it's not a deal killer if it can't be done with 50 yards as the low end.

I'm still learning about this stuff and am not the greatest at the math conversions yet. What do ya'll think? 20 or 30 MOA for the mount with this scope?

What if I zeroed the scope 10 clicks down from center at 200 yards? Can I still dial down to 100? Would this give me more flexibility for the longer distances?

[Pawpaw]

The 20 MOA mount should be plenty for 1,000 yards.

The 30 might cause problems on the short end. That scope has 65 MOA of adjustment, or 32.5 on each side of center. The 30 will eat up most of your short range adjustment.

[The Annoyed Man]

C-dub, get the 20 MOA. I had a 20 MOA BOBRO mount on it when I owned it, with a SWFA 5-20x50HD MRAD scope, and that was plenty enough scope, with plenty enough adjustment range. A 20 MOA mount with a 6-24x scope will more than adequate.

I used this one, if I recall correctly. It only has one release lever instead of two.
http://swfa.com/SWFA-Precision-Optic-30 ... 48134.aspx

[C-dub]

C-dub, get the 20 MOA. I had a 20 MOA BOBRO mount on it when I owned it, with a SWFA 5-20x50HD MRAD scope, and that was plenty enough scope, with plenty enough adjustment range. A 20 MOA mount with a 6-24x scope will more than adequate.

I used this one, if I recall correctly. It only has one release lever instead of two.
http://swfa.com/SWFA-Precision-Optic-30 ... 48134.aspx

I couldn't figure out why I hadn't seen that mount when I was searching for them before. You had talked about how nice the BoBro mounts were, so I was looking at them. This one is an SWFA mount and I don't see where it describes the cant. Although, I'm pretty sure they mean taper, since I thought cant referred to left or right tilt or yaw.

[C-dub]

Sorry about my confusion TAM.

It looks like that mount is a Bobro mount, but is an SWFA exclusive and that's why I didn't see it before. It still doesn't say what the cant or taper is, but I'm not worried about it much. I called them and they have many in stock. After the scope arrives I am going to take it and the rifle down and check out what they have to see what I like in their store.

[The Annoyed Man]

Sorry about my confusion TAM.

It looks like that mount is a Bobro mount, but is an SWFA exclusive and that's why I didn't see it before. It still doesn't say what the cant or taper is, but I'm not worried about it much. I called them and they have many in stock. After the scope arrives I am going to take it and the rifle down and check out what they have to see what I like in their store.

That is exactly what I did, and I had them mount and boresight it for me.

[C-dub]

The scope arrived on Monday and I took it all down yesterday to get the mount and everything. Looks good.

They didn't have any of the Bobro specific mounts in stock, but gobs of the SWFA exclusive/Bobro mounts and the same one from TAM's link. However, that mount is not available with a 20moa taper. It is only available with a 0moa taper. I was looking forward to being set up for longer range shooting if I ever got to a place where I could, but this one will probably do just fine. I hope to get it out next weekend, 21st or 22nd, and give it a go out to 200 yards.

[C-dub]

Moving on to the next phase. Now, I wish I had begun this thread differently.

I picked up a Pelican 1750 long case this morning at Academy. I know what the consensus on Academy clerk's opinions are of various firearms and laws and I also got one regarding whether or not to cut out the foam. With the scope attached and the protruding knobs, I think it would fit better with it cut out. However, I wish the middle piece of foam were two thin layers instead of one think one. The clerk's opinion was that it should not be cut out to give a tighter, more secure fit.

I only have two other rifle cases and they both have egg crate foam that is not intended to be cut out. I'd like to see what sort of experiences ya'll have. Have any of you cut out the foam only to have regrets?

[Pawpaw]

Cutting the foam or not is your decision. Do whichever you are most comfortable with. You could even just cut out the spots for the elevation and parallax knobs, if you're concerned about the foam putting too much pressure on them.

Since I will never fly with my rifle, I took a different route and bought a 42" drag bag. It has lots of room for accessories.

As for one of your original questions:

What if I zeroed the scope 10 clicks down from center at 200 yards? Can I still dial down to 100? Would this give me more flexibility for the longer distances?

With that scope, you don't have a true "zero stop", so you will be able to "dial down" the approximately 2moa to 100 yards. After you zero your rifle and install the shims, your knob won't stop at zero. It will still go several moa below zero.

As for more flexibility, not that I can see. It will only change where zero is on your drop chart.

[C-dub]

Cutting the foam or not is your decision. Do whichever you are most comfortable with. You could even just cut out the spots for the elevation and parallax knobs, if you're concerned about the foam putting too much pressure on them.

Since I will never fly with my rifle, I took a different route and bought a 42" drag bag. It has lots of room for accessories.

As for one of your original questions:

What if I zeroed the scope 10 clicks down from center at 200 yards? Can I still dial down to 100? Would this give me more flexibility for the longer distances?

With that scope, you don't have a true "zero stop", so you will be able to "dial down" the approximately 2moa to 100 yards. After you zero your rifle and install the shims, your knob won't stop at zero. It will still go several moa below zero.

As for more flexibility, not that I can see. It will only change where zero is on your drop chart.

At the very least, I will probably cut out space for the knobs. I will also probably cut out more. Other than making a mistake and messing up the foam, I am still curious if anyone has had any regrets about cutting out anything.

I've been reading. I have much to learn about this scope and using one of this quality. I've only used one before and it was only a $20-$30 one I put on a pellet rifle.

[Pawpaw]

We should get together at the range sometime. I have the same scope in FFP with the EBR-1 (MOA) reticle.

What I don't know about scopes would fit in a thimble with room left over for a Mac truck, but I've had this one over a year and I feel I know it pretty well.

I'll tell you one thing you will want. The throw lever for the zoom ring. I'm sure you've already noticed how stiff the ring is. On the rifle it is very hard to adjust in any reasonable amount of time. I got mine from Brownells. You want the top one "Mfr Part: SV2". Don't even think about one of the generic throw levers for this scope. They're not even in the same class. The generics are basically a ty-wrap and a plastic handlle. The SV2 is made of aluminum to fit your scope.

ETA: Here's my rifle with the scope mounted:

[The Annoyed Man]

The scope arrived on Monday and I took it all down yesterday to get the mount and everything. Looks good.

They didn't have any of the Bobro specific mounts in stock, but gobs of the SWFA exclusive/Bobro mounts and the same one from TAM's link. However, that mount is not available with a 20moa taper. It is only available with a 0moa taper. I was looking forward to being set up for longer range shooting if I ever got to a place where I could, but this one will probably do just fine. I hope to get it out next weekend, 21st or 22nd, and give it a go out to 200 yards.

C-dub, my range goes out to 250 yards, but there is a target stand at 200. It's Parker County Sportsman Club. Let me know if you want to go shoot, and I'll see if I can clear either of those days for a run out there.

[AJSully421]

Moving on to the next phase. Now, I wish I had begun this thread differently.

I picked up a Pelican 1750 long case this morning at Academy. I know what the consensus on Academy clerk's opinions are of various firearms and laws and I also got one regarding whether or not to cut out the foam. With the scope attached and the protruding knobs, I think it would fit better with it cut out. However, I wish the middle piece of foam were two thin layers instead of one think one. The clerk's opinion was that it should not be cut out to give a tighter, more secure fit.

I only have two other rifle cases and they both have egg crate foam that is not intended to be cut out. I'd like to see what sort of experiences ya'll have. Have any of you cut out the foam only to have regrets?

I have two 1750 cases. One is tan and is cut out for my 16" .308 Sig 716 (Also fits my 5.56 16" as well) . Used an electric knife, marked out what I wanted on the back side of the foam. Doesn't look perfect, but it holds my rifle just fine. I cut out a small bit in the bottom layer foam for the side turret and for the Dueck side sights.

The other case, I cut the center out of the middle foam layer only and left about 2" all the way around and used double side tape to attach the foam to the sides of the case. I can put two long guns in it and the edges are protected. This setup is good enough for things like shotguns and ARs with "combat optics" that can deal with some rough handling. I have yet to fly with a long gun.

[C-dub]

Pawpaw & TAM, I would enjoy taking both of you up your offers. My club, just outside of Terrell (Pawpaw has been there with me before.) has a 100 and 200 yard area. I would invite both of you to come out together with me or separately or also be happy to go to your ranges with you to shoot. My only problem right now is time. I'm getting ready to start a new job in a little over four weeks and most of my weekends are busy with my daughter's softball teams. Weekdays are more flexible for the next 3 weeks. After that, my schedule gets a little fuller.

[C-dub]

Moving on to the next phase. Now, I wish I had begun this thread differently.

I picked up a Pelican 1750 long case this morning at Academy. I know what the consensus on Academy clerk's opinions are of various firearms and laws and I also got one regarding whether or not to cut out the foam. With the scope attached and the protruding knobs, I think it would fit better with it cut out. However, I wish the middle piece of foam were two thin layers instead of one think one. The clerk's opinion was that it should not be cut out to give a tighter, more secure fit.

I only have two other rifle cases and they both have egg crate foam that is not intended to be cut out. I'd like to see what sort of experiences ya'll have. Have any of you cut out the foam only to have regrets?

I have two 1750 cases. One is tan and is cut out for my 16" .308 Sig 716 (Also fits my 5.56 16" as well) . Used an electric knife, marked out what I wanted on the back side of the foam. Doesn't look perfect, but it holds my rifle just fine. I cut out a small bit in the bottom layer foam for the side turret and for the Dueck side sights.

The other case, I cut the center out of the middle foam layer only and left about 2" all the way around and used double side tape to attach the foam to the sides of the case. I can put two long guns in it and the edges are protected. This setup is good enough for things like shotguns and ARs with "combat optics" that can deal with some rough handling. I have yet to fly with a long gun.

I have an electric 2-bladed serrated knife. I thought about doing it with a really sharp fillet knife that I also have. Either way, did you cut any of the cut out pieces in half horizontally and put the bottom back in the case? I've been thinking about that for some spots. I'm not expecting perfection from this, but don't want to butcher it up too bad. I've got a steady enough hand that I think I'll be okay. I've also read that for anyone that does this, to trace and cut maybe a quarter of an inch inside the trace for a snug fit. Is there anything to that? What's your experience?