Geeze...

[RX8er]

I guess reloading is just like any other hobby. Speaking primarily about powders.... Every site I visit seems to have favorite products that are touted as best and list some that are "never use" again stuff. Go to another reloading forum and what you just read is contradicted by someone who seems just as qualified. It frustrating for a guy like me who is trying to learn. Same goes for the brick and motor stores. I went to one close to me (name with held) to buy Absolute #2 and some primers. The guy helping me out wanted to sell me some other powder and was talking about how dirty and spiky #2 was?!? Maybe he knows better and for sure knows more than I but I just can't win.

Okay, I am done venting. I really don't have a question. My plan is to start with small quantities and see what I like.

[ghostrider]

Tell us what you plan to load (eg. 45acp for paper, 20ga for skeet, 270 for deer) and maybe we can help out.

[Jumping Frog]

Hodgdon Universal.

It is a safe mid-range powder that will work very for both your 9mm and .40 S&W loads (as well as a lot of other calibers).

It is basically like a more modern version of Unique in terms a versatility and mid-range performance, but it is much cleaner most important of all it will meter reliably from your powder measure..

Also, Hodgdon's load data on their website is simply terrific for all their powders.

As you get more into the hobby, there are plenty of other good powders as well. This is a good, middle of the road, versatile place to start.

[RX8er]

Tell us what you plan to load (eg. 45acp for paper, 20ga for skeet, 270 for deer) and maybe we can help out.

Sorry, it was more of a vent than it was a question about what powder to use. I feel that powder is kind of like shoes. They all get the job done of covering the feet. Some are made for very specific application while others cover a general use. Some swear by nike and other new balance!!

With that said, I appreciate your comments and yes, I should have included my equipment. I am planning to reload 9 mm and 40 cal for plinking and target. Once I have done this for a while, I will start looking at custom defensive loads.

[RX8er]

Hodgdon Universal.

It is a safe mid-range powder that will work very for both your 9mm and .40 S&W loads (as well as a lot of other calibers).

It is basically like a more modern version of Unique in terms a versatility and mid-range performance, but it is much cleaner most important of all it will meter reliably from your powder measure..

Also, Hodgdon's load data on their website is simply terrific for all their powders.

As you get more into the hobby, there are plenty of other good powders as well. This is a good, middle of the road, versatile place to start.

Thank you Jumping Frog. You have been spot on so far with your comments and feedback. I'll take your advice on this one as well and look for this powder.

BTW, the brass arrived today as reported from user The_Busy_Mom, aka the wife. Thanks much!!!

[Don2]

You'll find that of the many reloading forums available, there are as many opinions as there are people.
That applies to all sorts of things, not just reloading.

Best thing to do is get as much info as YOU can on your subject, read everything and then read them again.

Then pick components listed in the manuals for your pistol/revolver etc. and load it according to their details. Start on the lower/mid side.
Use only components listed...do NOT sub bullets shape/weights etc.

Use proper reloading procedure and safety's, make some up and go out and fire them and see how they work in YOUR gun. Same components different gun may not work the same???

Would be nice to have a Chronograph to check as many things as possible .

After all this work and reading, you will have the basis you need to start reloading ammo.


This was not meant to be proper instructional help, just my ideas on how to get started.

As you mentioned, I have bought many 1 lb bottles of powder so I could try them, it's just what you must do. ( But keep all powder in original containers and only have ONE open and on your bench at a time...!!!!!!!! )


Keep at it and have fun.
We are all Experts, some are even Perts..!!

Don2

[Lonest4r]

Yeah, opinions are a dime a dozen in the shooting sports as well as life. I went to buy some 1 pound containers for load development and the associate tried to give me his opinion on everything I should buy. I politely listened and then went about my business trying to select powder from the barren shelves.

[Jumping Frog]

Thank you Jumping Frog. You have been spot on so far with your comments and feedback. I'll take your advice on this one as well and look for this powder.

BTW, the brass arrived today as reported from user The_Busy_Mom, aka the wife. Thanks much!!!

Glad the brass arrived safe and sound.

Regarding my recommendation for Hodgdon's Universal, the actual label will be Hodgdon's Universal Clays. Hodgdon makes three different powders that says "Clays" on the label: Clays, International Clays, and Universal Clays. People usually refer to it as "Universal". Don't get the wrong kind of Clays.

Also, I realize the shelves are pretty bare these days. If your store doesn't have Hodgdon's Universal, feel free to give me a call from the store and we can discuss what choices they have in stock would work (you have my telephone number in the PM where I sent you my address).

My #1 suggestion for installing your new Loadmaster is to mount it on something that is rock-solid steady. If there is any movement or rocking of the press when you are operating it, it can (will) create problems, such as the primer system not working correctly. (One way to check is to have someone video you operating the press. It is amazing how you can see the press move in a video that you miss when actually operating it.) You would also be surprised the amount of stress it generates. The first time I mounted my Loadmaster, it was on a 3/4 inch wood top to my bench. I cracked that top within the first 5-10 hours of using the press. Then I mounted a 2"x12" to the bench top and mounted my press on top of it. That worked fine. When I moved and then built a new bench, I have a 1.5 inch bench top, then my Loadmaster is mounted on a 1/2 inch thick aluminum sheet (scrap yard) mounted to the bench top. I have pictures of both if you are interested.

My #2 suggestion for operating your new Loadmaster safely is to have a safety checklist. I had some squib loads when I first started reloading and brand new with the Loadmaster. Then, with coaching from Darwin over at LoadmasterVideoForums, I developed a mental checklist, where I literally said out loud, like a mantra, "Decap, case, primer, powder" every single time I operated the press lever arm.

I said it out loud so many times that even though I now load in silence, it still just automatically gets echoed in my brain.

Each word of the mantra corresponds to:

1. ("Decap") - Ram at top of stroke, make sure decapper is still in correct position. The Lee decapper pin will slide up instead of break if it cannot decap a case. This has saved me on rare occasions when the pin it slid up loading an inadvertent berdan-primered case.
2. ("Case") - Ram traveling downwards, glance at case feeder (station 1) and ensure a new case has dropped and is not upside down.
3. ("Primer") - Ram approaching bottom of stroke, watch primers drop in the primer trough during shellplate indexing (station 2). If the primer doesn't drop, STOP, and fix. Avoids crushing something or getting unprimed cases.
4. ("Powder") - Visually verify the powder level in case (station 4). Then insert bullet. You will be surprised how quickly the eye adjusts to noting the correct powder level in the case. A case that has too little or too much powder is immediately obvious. Many people, myself included, have mounted little LED lights on the Loadmaster that shine down into the case to give better powder visibility.

This a four-count mental checklist has identified and prevented numerous problems over the years.

The third trick to using a Loadmaster is to be in a rhythm and be aware of what the press feels like when operating correctly. If something feels wrong, always stop and identify what is not right -- don't "force it". Ram speed in the middle of the stroke does not really matter too much, but always slow down at the top and bottom of stroke and kind of "ease" the ram into place.

You don't have to jam the cases into the dies, just ease them in and reach the very top of stroke by making sure the press lever is pressing against the press stop and lean into it with about 15 pounds of pressure. Similarly, at the bottom of stroke, don't slam the press lever against the press which would spin the shellplate spraying powder. Slow down and ease into it at the bottom, again making sure you reach the press stops. There are press stops at both the top and bottom of stroke. Make sure you complete the stroke -- if you "short stroke" the press you will have problems.

Finally, my 4th recommendation is to start using the press like a single stage press at first so you know how each die works, and what to expect at that station. Install the turret with only one die at a time and try a couple of dozen rounds.

Then, install all your dies in the turret, but operate the press as if it was a turret press, running only one case through all the stations at a time. Decap/size, primer, bell/powder, seat/crimp. If you are only watching for one case at a time, you can watch each station closely and see what is going on. Keep operating it like this until you are comfortable that you know what is going on at each station.

Next, operate it like the progressive press that it is. I would suggest that you skip the case feeder and insert the cases by hand for the next few hundred rounds, just to simplify information overload. Once you are familiar and comfortable with the press operating as a progressive, then add the case feeder when you want to tackle that.

Good luck.

[RX8er]

Regarding my recommendation for Hodgdon's Universal, the actual label will be Hodgdon's Universal Clays. Hodgdon makes three different powders that says "Clays" on the label: Clays, International Clays, and Universal Clays. People usually refer to it as "Universal". Don't get the wrong kind of Clays.

Also, I realize the shelves are pretty bare these days. If your store doesn't have Hodgdon's Universal, feel free to give me a call from the store and we can discuss what choices they have in stock would work (you have my telephone number in the PM where I sent you my address).

Thanks. Yes I understand. I was reading online about the various Hodgon's flavors. I plan to do some shopping early next week. I just may take you up on the phone call.

My #1 suggestion for installing your new Loadmaster is to mount it on something that is rock-solid steady. If there is any movement or rocking of the press when you are operating it, it can (will) create problems, such as the primer system not working correctly. (One way to check is to have someone video you operating the press. It is amazing how you can see the press move in a video that you miss when actually operating it.) You would also be surprised the amount of stress it generates. The first time I mounted my Loadmaster, it was on a 3/4 inch wood top to my bench. I cracked that top within the first 5-10 hours of using the press. Then I mounted a 2"x12" to the bench top and mounted my press on top of it. That worked fine. When I moved and then built a new bench, I have a 1.5 inch bench top, then my Loadmaster is mounted on a 1/2 inch thick aluminum sheet (scrap yard) mounted to the bench top. I have pictures of both if you are interested.

Funny, this is what I have been building all day today. Good idea on the aluminum plate as I had not thought it would be that much force. I can pick some up or steal at the scrap yard as well if needed. I have a 30X90 bench and once I am all done, it'll be lag bolted to the studs. I have a sandwich work top of 3/4 ply, 3/4 particle board, 15/32 ply, 1/4 Masonite. Each layer is properly glued and screwed and the top Masonite layer is contact cemented to to the sandwich. It should be rock solid but having The_Busy_Mom video me is a great idea. I was actually thinking about having a leg that I can swing down right under the press when in use and stow back up under the bench when not in use. I would love to see pictures of what you have. I'll take some of mine in the morning.

My #2 suggestion for operating your new Loadmaster safely is to have a safety checklist. I had some squib loads when I first started reloading and brand new with the Loadmaster. Then, with coaching from Darwin over at LoadmasterVideoForums, I developed a mental checklist, where I literally said out loud, like a mantra, "Decap, case, primer, powder" every single time I operated the press lever arm.

Great tip. No need to lose a finger, or worse, doing this. I plan to print it out and learn it well.

The third & 4th recommendation

Another great tip. Yes, that is my plan. Start out like it is a single stage and SLOWLY work my way up to an assembly line.


Thank you again for all the help, advice and tips. You know how to make a guy feel special.

Oh, and please don't take my comments of "yes, plan to or yes, I know" other than I have read it and marked it in my personal Loading Manual I am building. I love the feedback and is only reinforcing what I am reading and learning as I move along.

[Jumping Frog]

I would love to see pictures of what you have.

This is what I posted when I made the bench last year: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53375&p=650840

The last picture shows the press mounted to a thin piece of sheet steel. I since upgraded to a thicker aluminum sheet, but the basic mount is the same.

See the small refrigerator next to the bench? One way to keep powder and primers cool during a hot humid summer.

I loaded up 250 rounds of .45 ACP last night after my wife fell asleep and I was wide awake. Gonna cast some .44 mag hollowpoint bullets today.

[RX8er]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Been busy working and building the bench. I like your idea of using T tracking and now have something on the list for a future mod.

I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to mount my press. I want to remove it when not in use so I can store it. I was thinking about doing something like you have done.... Mount my press on 1/4 thick piece of steel and 3/4 plywood and then use a couple lag bolts to bolt it to the bench top.

Last night, I level fore and aft and left and right and then bolted to the wall. There 3/8" leveling from left to right and 1/4" front to back. I also added the lights over the bench and a couple in each end cabinet.


Here is a picture of what I am working on.

[Jumping Frog]

I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to mount my press. I want to remove it when not in use so I can store it. I was thinking about doing something like you have done.... Mount my press on 1/4 thick piece of steel and 3/4 plywood and then use a couple lag bolts to bolt it to the bench top.

That will be fine, although I would suggest traditional bolts/lock washer/washer/nuts instead of lag screws. Much stronger to drill a hole straight through the bench top.

You can even figure out where you think you'd want the ttrack, and drill your mounting holes such that they will be covered by the ttrack when you get around to it.

[RX8er]

That will be fine, although I would suggest traditional bolts/lock washer/washer/nuts instead of lag screws. Much stronger to drill a hole straight through the bench top.

You can even figure out where you think you'd want the ttrack, and drill your mounting holes such that they will be covered by the ttrack when you get around to it.

Hadn't thought about the drilling for the track and using those holes. I have some grade 8 1/4" hardware I can use to mount the press to the block and then block to bench. I don't have any steel plating yet and am tied up traveling though Thursday night.

[mloamiller]

I’ve been reloading 9mm for about a year and had the same questions about which powder. I also did a lot of searching and came up with a list of about a dozen “the absolute best powder!” I started with Hodgdon Titegroup (recommended by a vendor at a gun show) but ended up with a lot of “poofs” at the range. I eventually switched to Winchester 231 and have not had any since.

I know that some of my “poofs” were caused by not watching the reload process closely enough and not seeing when the brass wasn’t filled correctly – chalk that up to being a newbie. However, the reason I switched to Winchester is because it is a slower burning powder. I figured out that as a slower burning powder, it takes more powder to achieve the same result. More powder = a fuller casing, so it’s easier to see that it’s full (or not as full as it should be). I believe this is the biggest reason I haven’t had any more poofs – it’s a lot easier to see a full casing with trifocals. I have also become much more diligent in checking every casing, but again, the larger volume of powder makes that easier.

I also believe Winchester 231 burns cleaner than Titegroup – less residue – but I can’t swear to that since I’ve not done a direct comparison.

[RX8er]

Thank you Mike for the feedback. I've read that about 231 and did some research over on reloadersnest.