gun jams

[Venus Pax]

I took some reloads to the range today. Out of 40 rounds, about 5 either stovepiped or were double feeds. I can handle stovepipes (Charles taught some of us how to quickly clear), but those double feeds are a pain--the magazine gets stuck and the slide won't budge... it takes up to thirty seconds to clear, and sometimes requires an extra set of hands.

Here's my data:
.45 acp
200 gr. precision SWC (coated lead bullet)
5.2 gr. Unique powder
OAL: roughly 1.241 to 2.252
light crimp.

I'm more concerned about OAL than anything. My dies will remain at the same position for each loading session, but I get variations in OAL on the individual rounds. I'm well above the minimum OAL as far as the manual is concerned, but the ridge on the bullet is just barely above the top of the brass as it is. What is a good maximum OAL?

What do I need to fix?

[KRM45]

I took some reloads to the range today. Out of 40 rounds, about 5 either stovepiped or were double feeds. I can handle stovepipes (Charles taught some of us how to quickly clear), but those double feeds are a pain--the magazine gets stuck and the slide won't budge... it takes up to thirty seconds to clear, and sometimes requires an extra set of hands.

Here's my data:
.45 acp
200 gr. precision SWC (coated lead bullet)
5.2 gr. Unique powder
OAL: roughly 1.241 to 2.252
light crimp.

I'm more concerned about OAL than anything. My dies will remain at the same position for each loading session, but I get variations in OAL on the individual rounds. I'm well above the minimum OAL as far as the manual is concerned, but the ridge on the bullet is just barely above the top of the brass as it is. What is a good maximum OAL?

What do I need to fix?

Hopefully you don't really have a 1" variation in OAL...

I found that LSWC will not function reliably in my Kimber. I've got a Ruger P97DC that will eat them just fine and I had a Springfield 1911 that would feed them fine as well. If I want reliable feeding in my Kimber I ned to use LRN or Jacketed SWC...

I don't know what your shooting these in, but you may need a new gun [/b]

[Charles L. Cotton]

. . . I can handle stovepipes (Charles taught some of us how to quickly clear), but those double feeds are a pain--the magazine gets stuck and the slide won't budge... it takes up to thirty seconds to clear, and sometimes requires an extra set of hands.

I taught you how to clear a double-feed too, and if it's taking you 30 seconds, you and I are going back to the range!

Here's my data:
.45 acp
200 gr. precision SWC (coated lead bullet)
5.2 gr. Unique powder
OAL: roughly 1.241 to 2.252
light crimp.

I'm more concerned about OAL than anything. My dies will remain at the same position for each loading session, but I get variations in OAL on the individual rounds. I'm well above the minimum OAL as far as the manual is concerned, but the ridge on the bullet is just barely above the top of the brass as it is. What is a good maximum OAL?

What do I need to fix?

Your OAL variance is not unusual. In fact, my targeted OAL for 200 SWC is 1.215 nominal It's going to vary, so I used to put "(N)" on my load sticker, just in case someone decided to check the accuracy of my loads v. sticker. (Yeah, I used to shoot with an engineer that actually did that to me.) As a very general statement with many exceptions, the longer the OAL the better the round will feed. Your OAL should be fine.

Your crimp is probably fine, as that isn't going to cause a stovepipe or double-feed. (I crimp to .470) In fact, your OAL isn't going to cause that either.

I suspect your powder charge is too light. The Lyman Book (48th) shows a minimum charge of 5.0 Unique for a Lyman #452460 200 SWC, pushing it at 670 fps. This is a very light charge. The same book shows a minimum charge of 6.0 Unique in a Lyman #452630 200 gr. SWC (same bullet weight, with a similar but different configuration) pushing it at 717 fps, still very light.

A charge that light without changing to a lighter recoil spring is very likely to cause the failure to eject problems you are experiencing, as well as double-feeds. The double feed problem can also be caused by a bad or improperly tuned extractor. I can check that for you at the range next time, or you can call me and I'll tell you how to do it.

I hope this helps,
Chas.

[MoJo]

Venus,

Try 1.260 to 1.265 overall length also a little more crimp may help. You may be getting bullet setback. What weight recoil spring do you have in the gun. If it is an extra power spring over 16# that may explain the double feeds and stovepipes. Your powder charge is awfully light my Lyman Handbook recommends 6.0 gr of Unique as a starting load with a 200 gr bullet with a max of 7.5 gr. Check your magazines are they in good condition and are they a good brand I like Chip McCormick, Wilson, Metalform and MecGar they are all top quality. Is your feed ramp smooth? Extractor tension can cause some of these problems too. I really think the biggest problem you have is your ammo has too little powder and the rounds are too short.

[Venus Pax]

KRM,
That was a typo on my part. I should have typed 1.241 to 1.252.
I'm not getting a new gun; I need to figure out what this one wants to eat & plan accordingly.

Charles & MoJo,
I made a new batch tonight with a charge of 5.8 grains of Unique. My OAL was 1.220 to 1.235. We'll see how that works.
I finally broke down and ordered Lyman's manual. (I hope I got the right one. All Amazon had were paperbacks... didn't seem like manual material to me, but as the addage goes, You can't judge a reloading manual by its cover.)
I'll probably test these rounds tomorrow afternoon.
Charles, next time I see you (at a range), I'll ask you to show me again how to clear a double-feed. I was having issues today.

Thanks, guys, for the responses.
VP

[MoJo]

V.P.

All my reloading notes got ruined during Hurricane Rita so I can't look up what charge of Unique I used to use with a 200 gr SWC in .45 ACP but, if my memory serves me it was 6.2 gr and it would run any 1911 I put them in.

The Lyman handbook is paperback so you ordered the right one.

You are on the right track working your loads up gradually, better safe than sorry.

[KRM45]

KRM,
That was a typo on my part. I should have typed 1.241 to 1.252.
I'm not getting a new gun; I need to figure out what this one wants to eat & plan accordingly.

I figured it was a typo...

[flintknapper]

KRM,
That was a typo on my part. I should have typed 1.241 to 1.252.
I'm not getting a new gun; I need to figure out what this one wants to eat & plan accordingly.

Charles & MoJo,
I made a new batch tonight with a charge of 5.8 grains of Unique. My OAL was 1.220 to 1.235. We'll see how that works.
I finally broke down and ordered Lyman's manual. (I hope I got the right one. All Amazon had were paperbacks... didn't seem like manual material to me, but as the addage goes, You can't judge a reloading manual by its cover.)
I'll probably test these rounds tomorrow afternoon.
Charles, next time I see you (at a range), I'll ask you to show me again how to clear a double-feed. I was having issues today.

Thanks, guys, for the responses. VP

VP,

What most people call a "Double Feed" can range from fairly simple, to nearly impossible to clear... (depending upon the firearm and the nature of the stoppage).

I have seen two rounds side by side, one round completely turned backwards....and just about everything in between.

The most common method for clearing a type 3 stoppage is:

1. Rack the slide back and lock it open (not always possible).

2. Press the magazine release and "rip" the mag. from the well. If it is your only mag. (shame on you) then retain it.

3. Rack the slide back 3-4 times to clear/extract any spent case/live round.

4. Insert spare mag. (or original mag. ), rack slide and you should be good to go.

All of the above should be done from behind cover (if available).

You can't reasonably duplicate every type 3 stoppage that can occur, but.....a simple way to practice is this:


1. Remove mag. from pistol and empty it.

2. Lock slide back.

3. Insert empty brass (or snap cap) into chamber.

4. Load a (snap cap) into the mag and insert into pistol.

5. SLOWLY lower the slide until it begins to strip the round from the mag. and jams it against the one already in the chamber. Presto, you have type 3 stoppage.

6. Follow instructions above concerning clearing this type malfunction.

Caution: Practicing this kind of malfunction can be quite hard on magazine lips. Also, if you have flush fitting mags. it can be difficult to get a purchase on them in order to strip them from the mag. well.

"Tap and Rack" will clear most stoppages (but not this one), you must reload anytime you have "too much brass around the chamber".