Heat stippling

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Re: Heat stippling

Postby lowonair » Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:00 pm

The Annoyed Man wrote:
lowonair wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:You just voided your warranty. :mrgreen:

A 1911 would have obviated the need to do this. "rlol" :smilelol5: :biggrinjester: :evil2:

most 1911's dont come with front strap serrations anyway so you have to send it back to have them done. this can be done at home. :tiphat:

and glocks dont need warranties ;-)

Yeah, but the ones that don't can be fixed with skateboard tape.... ....without voiding the warranty. :mrgreen:


i forgot, 1911's require more time at the gunsmith so there's no time for serrating the front strap.... :smilelol5:
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby A-R » Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:08 pm

lowonair wrote:
austinrealtor wrote:
lowonair wrote:how long did it take to do the stippling? any pics of how much you sanded off the front and back? did you sand the sides befor doing this? i have a 2.5 gen g36 that i want to try this on.


I've since done my G27 too (actually sold this G22). The G27 took about an hour start to finish. G22 about 90 minutes because slightly larger and two patterns. The G27 is newer so the side panel patterns were still in good shape and left them alone.

The sanding was fairly minimal - sanded off the raised peaks that form the finger "grooves", then just sanded the original front and back texture to smooth it a bit and leave it roughly same level as the corners, if that makes sense. This just makes it easier to make a uniform pattern with the soldering iron/woodburner tip.



so on the back of the grip you dont sand the texture completely off? seems to me that would take too much off the structure of the polymer. i'm just worried about the little raised grooves on the front and rear and how to do those areas.


I never go any "deeper" than the base layer of the grip "under" the OEM texture if that makes sense. Take a look at this photo again.

Image

I remove the "bumps" or ridges which form the finger grooves. After that, I sand down slightly the little raised square texture slightly - just enough so that it is uniform enough when I start doing the point & drag stippling effect. I never even get close to that base layer of polymer you see beneath the little square texture nubs.

And caveat for ALL of this is of course that I'm not even mediocre a garage gunsmith and certainly not certified or accredited or in any way whatsoever an "expert" in any of this. Follow my directions at your own risk. Knock on wood, this has worked for me so far.
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby The Annoyed Man » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:15 am

lowonair wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:
lowonair wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:You just voided your warranty. :mrgreen:

A 1911 would have obviated the need to do this. "rlol" :smilelol5: :biggrinjester: :evil2:

most 1911's dont come with front strap serrations anyway so you have to send it back to have them done. this can be done at home. :tiphat:

and glocks dont need warranties ;-)

Yeah, but the ones that don't can be fixed with skateboard tape.... ....without voiding the warranty. :mrgreen:

i forgot, 1911's require more time at the gunsmith so there's no time for serrating the front strap.... :smilelol5:

Five 1911s in the safe with never a "required" trip to a gunsmith. You are obviously poorly informed, sir! Admit that you're just jealous! "rlol"
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby jtran987 » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:43 am

glad it turned out good for you! :patriot:
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby lowonair » Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:52 pm

The Annoyed Man wrote:
lowonair wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:
lowonair wrote:
The Annoyed Man wrote:You just voided your warranty. :mrgreen:

A 1911 would have obviated the need to do this. "rlol" :smilelol5: :biggrinjester: :evil2:

most 1911's dont come with front strap serrations anyway so you have to send it back to have them done. this can be done at home. :tiphat:

and glocks dont need warranties ;-)

Yeah, but the ones that don't can be fixed with skateboard tape.... ....without voiding the warranty. :mrgreen:

i forgot, 1911's require more time at the gunsmith so there's no time for serrating the front strap.... :smilelol5:

Five 1911s in the safe with never a "required" trip to a gunsmith. You are obviously poorly informed, sir! Admit that you're just jealous! "rlol"


your just lucky. every one that i've owned could go 50 rounds without something happening.
austinrealtor wrote:
lowonair wrote:
austinrealtor wrote:
lowonair wrote:how long did it take to do the stippling? any pics of how much you sanded off the front and back? did you sand the sides befor doing this? i have a 2.5 gen g36 that i want to try this on.


I've since done my G27 too (actually sold this G22). The G27 took about an hour start to finish. G22 about 90 minutes because slightly larger and two patterns. The G27 is newer so the side panel patterns were still in good shape and left them alone.

The sanding was fairly minimal - sanded off the raised peaks that form the finger "grooves", then just sanded the original front and back texture to smooth it a bit and leave it roughly same level as the corners, if that makes sense. This just makes it easier to make a uniform pattern with the soldering iron/woodburner tip.



so on the back of the grip you dont sand the texture completely off? seems to me that would take too much off the structure of the polymer. i'm just worried about the little raised grooves on the front and rear and how to do those areas.


I never go any "deeper" than the base layer of the grip "under" the OEM texture if that makes sense. Take a look at this photo again.

Image

I remove the "bumps" or ridges which form the finger grooves. After that, I sand down slightly the little raised square texture slightly - just enough so that it is uniform enough when I start doing the point & drag stippling effect. I never even get close to that base layer of polymer you see beneath the little square texture nubs.

And caveat for ALL of this is of course that I'm not even mediocre a garage gunsmith and certainly not certified or accredited or in any way whatsoever an "expert" in any of this. Follow my directions at your own risk. Knock on wood, this has worked for me so far.


i think i'll try this out soon. gonna try it on a few things before i jump to my glocks. how is the tree bark style done? seems more cmplicated.
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby dessl » Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:41 pm

Bob the stippling on your glock looks good! How does it feel in your hand after shooting 50 rounds?
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby ske1eter » Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:43 pm

Here's the starburst pattern I put on my M&P's. Since this picture was taken, I've done the front of the grip as well.

Image
Image
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Re: Heat stippling

Postby NOS » Sat Sep 18, 2010 7:03 am

ske1eter wrote:Here's the starburst pattern I put on my M&P's. Since this picture was taken, I've done the front of the grip as well.

Image
Image


Very nice work! :tiphat:
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