2up1down wrote:Since the OP has always been such a great guy on here...
I don't do tutorials, often, and I don't currently have any pics of my daily holsters,
but I have this pic of one I made a friend in about an hour on Father's Day.
I purposefully left the leather way oversized so he could cut it down after
wearing. (his first IWB) He has since "combat cut" it to expose the grip.
There are many nice commercial holsters out available, but I'm not waiting
or paying a small fortune for something I can make exactly how I want it.
OP you have a great start, hoping this will assist you in your future projects.
As I stated before the guys at Tandy are great.
I study over 100 tutorials before I began building mine over a year ago.
Everything from vacuum forming to forming with gloved hands. So I
will try and save you some searching:
1. Great start on cow leather- quarter/half shoulder, avg 8-9oz vegetable tanned.
I like both Cow and Horse.
an alternative that works as a better sweat barrier is horse hide:
http://springfieldleather.com/product/2 ... -%26-Wide/
a. Thinner and stiffer, more water resistant..
b. some line their kydex with it,
c. I have used it against my skin with cow as the front.
d. you can lace/sew it together or simply use rubber cement and the screws will hold it together.
e. Use it all by itself. Whatever you come up with.
2. Kydex- the thinner .060 molds better (make sure you don't make pointy creases)
Some say it too fragile, I haven't found that to be true. Your press is perfect, might
want to press over foam for more definition.
These folks are local and awesome customer service.
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.ph ... 61cba470b5
Check out the selection and prices.
3. Nice tutorial, think it was mentioned:
4. One neat thing to do instead of holes for your clips,
cut belt loops, use washers on both sides. Then you can
wear it outside the waist on your belt, or inside and you
can adjust the depth to your liking.
5.. most commercial holsters come with multiple clip holes
so you can "adjust the cant" leaving too much leather low on your hip.
Much better to figure the cant into your kydex, just til the kydex when you press.
Soon you will find how far you like it.
6. May colors of dye are available and 'super sheen' is the water proof top coat.
just ask for suggestions at Tandy's.
Great job, keep going!
Target1911 wrote:So I got me some leather today.....
It took 3 tries to get the kydex right. i had to remove the mag release...grips...grip screws on one side....and cut a grove in my top board that fit over the slide lock and safety. The top board was pushing the top rear of my gun to far, making that area of the kydex to deep.
I used my Crossbreed and guild....and for the hardware I needed.
BTW....I have the overly priced kydex press from knife kits, and the foam that is made for it. I did remove the top piece of foam but left the bottom for the molding that i needed. I still plan to do some minor spot molding but it very functional as is.
The only Kydex I had that was thin enough is the gray. The black i have is .120.....waaaay too thick for this.
Oh yeah....this is for a Kimber ultra.
Mahzik wrote:What is eveyone's opinion of whether or not you need to line the kydex in order to protect the finish on your gun?
Warhammer wrote:I know that at least one holster maker (Tucker) made a leather-lined Kydex holster. However, they apparently no longer make it. It was offered more for the "silent draw" feature than for gun finish protection. I'm not sure what adhesive you would need to bond leather to Kydex.
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