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1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 10:27 pm
by DocV
Everybody needs to build at least one 1911 but the first stumper along that path is how to figure out how narrow to cut the frame's rails. To do that, it seems a good idea to be able to find the width of the slide's channels. The problem with that is, how do we get an interior measurement of the width of the slide channels? We can buy some expensive tools to do that measurement, or we can go for the cheaper option. I use a 3/32 drill bit that is slightly under .094 inches. I put the drill bit into the slide channel and make two measurements. One for the width of the slide and one measurement of the slide width plus the pin width as in:
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The depth of the channel is then simple to find.

You need to measure both channel depths and the separation between the interior of the slide. Add the depths to the distance between each side of the slide to guess the width between the channels. Make several measurements along the length of the slide to find the narrowest spot in the slide. Be certain to measure carefully and overestimate the width of frame rails. Then incrementally remove material from the frame's rails as needed to inch the slide onto the frame.

If you are patient you can end up with a good slide to frame fit:
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This one has no horizontal or vertical slop but moves forwards and backwards like it is on butter.

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:41 am
by MeMelYup
With it that tight, how does it work woth 500 rounds through it without cleaning?

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:40 am
by DocV
george wrote:Speaking as a gun-butcher from way back, I would say that looks like a really good fit, and a job well done.

The only caveat to such a tight fit would be galling. Had you ever thought about making some relief cuts perpendicular to the rails, just to give trash a place to go?
Hmmm. Had not considered relief cuts on the rails. Will mull that one over a bit once I get closer to completing the project.

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:49 am
by DocV
MeMelYup wrote:With it that tight, how does it work woth 500 rounds through it without cleaning?
How it works remains to be seen. I am debating whether or not to have it blued prior to shooting it or wait on bluing after I run some rounds through it. All that said, the picture makes the fit look tighter than it actually is as there were quite a few metal shaving having a party in the back of the slide when I took the picture. I will take some more pictures once I finish the project and clean things up.

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:50 pm
by jwine
Just curious on the progress you have made with this.

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:15 am
by DocV
jwine wrote:Just curious on the progress you have made with this.
The pistol is at the finishers and will be back home in three or four weeks. I will post some pictures when I figure out how to get is back together ;-)

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 2:18 pm
by DocV
Oh, I realized I forgot to post a picture when I got a first fit of all of the parts.
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I followed this up with quite a bit of polishing but the finisher is doing even more polishing. Frame, slide, mainspring housing, plunger tube, slide top, thumb and grip safeties will come back either blued or "Hello Kitty" hydro-dipped - depending on how many times I annoy the finisher.

Re: 1911 slide to frame fit

Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:54 pm
by DocV
It only seemed like forever but my pistol build is complete. Here are a few pictures:

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Unfortunately, the LED lighting and the iPad photos do not do the finish justice.
I have a couple of things yet to accomplish:
The grips currently on the pistol are my "display" grips and I hope to supplement those with a set from tenring soon.
The magazine catch in the picture is acting as a substitute for a mag catch that is finished to match the frame. For some reason, the finished magazine catch is acting persnickity about locking. I have just the Dremel for such uncooperative parts :roll: