WD40

[equin]

Sorry for the dumb question, but what is “LSA?”

[Boxerrider]

Automatic transmission fluid works great and is much cheaper than WD40.

This has been good for me too. I don't clean and oil with WD-40 but I have used it for long term storage. Clean with Hopes #9 solvent. Use Break Free is my favorite CLP. Spray a good gun case down with WD40 and slide under a bed for a long time. Any of you real science men see anything wrong with doing it that way.

Long term - I don't have any idea what the WD40 will do to whatever material the case is made of. You will probably be fine, and you might have a giant mess. Mine have done well with a good cleaning and waxing (make sure it is non-abrasive) then put someplace dry. Use desiccant packs if humidity may be a problem.

[Boxerrider]

Sorry for the dumb question, but what is “LSA?”

Here is a link to a similar thread with some specifics on LSA.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u ... Shelf_Life

Jeff

[kayt00]

I was a machinist some time ago and the owner of the shop I worked in was a Vietnam vet. He had purchased multiple palettes of the stuff for drilling and milling applications, it worked great. I asked one day what it was made from and I was told that it was rendered pork fat. Going off color, texture when it gets cold, and smell when it burns I believe it but have no real confirmation beyond the vets word.

[papabear]

Automatic transmission fluid works great and is much cheaper than WD40.

This has been good for me too. I don't clean and oil with WD-40 but I have used it for long term storage. Clean with Hopes #9 solvent. Use Break Free is my favorite CLP. Spray a good gun case down with WD40 and slide under a bed for a long time. Any of you real science men see anything wrong with doing it that way.

Long term - I don't have any idea what the WD40 will do to whatever material the case is made of. You will probably be fine, and you might have a giant mess. Mine have done well with a good cleaning and waxing (make sure it is non-abrasive) then put someplace dry. Use desiccant packs if humidity may be a problem.

Thank you. I will change and use one of the CLP sprays. I think Winchester makes a good one.

[der Teufel]

I used to race sport cars and spent a lot of time cleaning and lubricating things. I generally think of WD40 as more of a solvent than a lubricant. It has its' place, and it's probably a better lubricant than nothing, but I use other things for my firearms.

[The Annoyed Man]

My son, who is currently a machinist, but has been a gunsmith in the past, uses M-Pro 7 to clean his guns, and Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to lube them.

I have used any number of different dedicated gun cleaners/lines over the years, and many of the, work just fine....but they cost more than just good oil. I have used Frog Lube, Fire Clean, Slip2000, Hopes, etc., etc., and I tend to use whatever I have on hand to clean with, which right now is a left over bottle of Break Free CLP, and whatever we have on hand to lube with....which happens to be my son's bottle of Mobil 1. Considering that a quart bottle of Mobil 1 is probably enough oil to lube ALL of your guns for the next 50-100 years, it’s a bargain. Also, if it will run for hours on end inside the extremely hostile environment of an internal combustion engine, standing up to the shearing forces between bearing surfaces and between cylinder walls and rings, then it will hold up to occasional semiauto gunfire just fine.

....although I am curious about how well one of those trick motor oils like Slick 50 or CermaTreatment would perform....

[K-Texas]

I have some machining experience as well as some courses taken a few years back at my Tech College Alma-Matter. Lubricants for cutting tools are an interesting subject. Mineral based for best lubrication, synthetic for higher temperatures and longer wear. So, like the engine in your pickup, or mine anyway, semi-synthetics are a good choice.

I have a number of cleaning kits around here and there was one event where I was going to do a break-in of a new rifle but forgot my cleaning kit while out of town. Wally-World was the solution with a typical cleaning kit that came with CLP. CLP standing for Clean, Lubricate, Protect, and it's a good one. It got me to wondering how much different CLP was from full-synthetic motor oil, so I later cleaned handguns with full-synthetic motor oil. Powder solvents are great when a barrel is really dirty, but the synthetic motor oil did a good job for me, and I clean my guns after every trip to the range, so that might not be the toughest test. Synthetic oil is very slick and helps loosen the things that dirty up barrels. If you shoot and clean a barrel that is Cold-Hammer-Forged, that can be quite hard in terms of barrel steel, you may find that continual cleaning with a synthetic oil will work very well.

Since I also own and shoot revolvers, I'll always keep a powder solvent around for that and rifle cleaning, and I've never found any need to replace Hoppe's No 9 for that. Whatever works for you is fine by me. I have seen powder solvents that are so strong that cleaning patches begin showing what appears to be barrel finish. Those I would avoid. Proper cleaning procedure is far more important than solvents advertised to do more in less time.

[Lena]

Sorry for the dumb question, but what is “LSA?”

Lubricant semifluid for automatic weapons, there are 2 versions of it I remember still have 2 gallons just about all I use, shake it though