Kimber Ultra Carry II won’t cycle properly

[Teamless]

A good friend of mine bought his first non-plinking pistol this week.
He has wanted a Kimber for a long time and finally did it.

He and I went to the range today so he could test it out.

We ended up going through about 50 rounds of it before we gave up.
Each round went bang properly, only less than 5 actually cycled properly (bang, extract, eject, reload).

A handful stovepiped, but most never actually moved the slide.

I was hoping that it was “break-in” issues and 2-3 mags in, it would start to cycle properly, but it never seemed to get any closer to a properly cycling weapon.

So, for you Kimber fans out there:
- did you have similar experiences?
If so, how did you rectify the issue?

If you didn’t have experience with this issue, suggestions on how to move forward with this?

Thanks in advance

[crazy2medic]

My first thought is an extractor issue, second thought I'd contact kimber!

[kayt00]

Different ammo brand? Only time I ever had cycling issues with any of mine was in Colorado in 30° cold. But I'm pinning that issue on the powder since the same reloads ran great when I got back home.

[The Annoyed Man]

A good friend of mine bought his first non-plinking pistol this week.
He has wanted a Kimber for a long time and finally did it.

He and I went to the range today so he could test it out.

We ended up going through about 50 rounds of it before we gave up.
Each round went bang properly, only less than 5 actually cycled properly (bang, extract, eject, reload).

A handful stovepiped, but most never actually moved the slide.

I was hoping that it was “break-in” issues and 2-3 mags in, it would start to cycle properly, but it never seemed to get any closer to a properly cycling weapon.

So, for you Kimber fans out there:
- did you have similar experiences?
If so, how did you rectify the issue?

If you didn’t have experience with this issue, suggestions on how to move forward with this?

Thanks in advance

I used to own and carry this exact pistol. I think I sold it maybe around 2009-2010 to another forum member. It’s a 3” model, alloy frame, stainless slide. Did he buy it used? There’s a reason I ask....

The cause of the problem in mine was a badly shaped slide stop lever. It would engage … or try to … even when the magazine still had rounds in it. So, the slide would either lock back or only go into partial battery when the mag was loaded. I’d get 2-3 FTFs/lock backs per magazine. It was a real pain.

I brought the problem to the forum, and somebody, I don’t remember who it was at the time, informed me that Kimber had released a bunch of Ultra Carry II pistols with a known issue, the defective slide stop, and that all I had to do was call Kimber and tell them the problem, and they’d ship me a new replacement slide stop for free. I did, and they did, and the gun ran flawlessly ever after.

Amusing end to the story .... I kept the "defective" part in the Kimber's plastic case, and one day at the range with my son, the slide stop pin on his Taurus PT-1911 broke in half. We tried substituting the "defective" Kimber part for the broken one, and lo and behold, it worked perfectly fine in that gun. It’s still in that gun today, and has run flawlessly. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Anyway, tell your friend to give Kimber a call and let them know about the problem. It may be a matter of nothing more than sending him a replacement part. Alternatively, they may suggest sending them the gun for a warranty repair. Either way, MY experience is that Kimber's customer service was pretty good. Maybe it still is.

Edited to add, here’s the original thread I mentioned: https://texaschlforum.com/viewtopic.php ... 70#p164070

[Boxerrider]

Wife has a Pro Carry II in 9mm. I kept it pretty slick and fed it full power loads for the first few hundred rounds.
New gun or used?
Either way - clean, lube well, and try different kinds of ammo and different magazines.

Enjoy!
Jeff

[Teamless]

A good friend of mine bought his first non-plinking pistol this week.
He has wanted a Kimber for a long time and finally did it.

He and I went to the range today so he could test it out.

We ended up going through about 50 rounds of it before we gave up.
Each round went bang properly, only less than 5 actually cycled properly (bang, extract, eject, reload).

A handful stovepiped, but most never actually moved the slide.

I was hoping that it was “break-in” issues and 2-3 mags in, it would start to cycle properly, but it never seemed to get any closer to a properly cycling weapon.

So, for you Kimber fans out there:
- did you have similar experiences?
If so, how did you rectify the issue?

If you didn’t have experience with this issue, suggestions on how to move forward with this?

Thanks in advance

I used to own and carry this exact pistol. I think I sold it maybe around 2009-2010 to another forum member. It’s a 3” model, alloy frame, stainless slide. Did he buy it used? There’s a reason I ask....

The cause of the problem in mine was a badly shaped slide stop lever. It would engage … or try to … even when the magazine still had rounds in it. So, the slide would either lock back or only go into partial battery when the mag was loaded. I’d get 2-3 FTFs/lock backs per magazine. It was a real pain.

I brought the problem to the forum, and somebody, I don’t remember who it was at the time, informed me that Kimber had released a bunch of Ultra Carry II pistols with a known issue, the defective slide stop, and that all I had to do was call Kimber and tell them the problem, and they’d ship me a new replacement slide stop for free. I did, and they did, and the gun ran flawlessly ever after.

Amusing end to the story .... I kept the "defective" part in the Kimber's plastic case, and one day at the range with my son, the slide stop pin on his Taurus PT-1911 broke in half. We tried substituting the "defective" Kimber part for the broken one, and lo and behold, it worked perfectly fine in that gun. It’s still in that gun today, and has run flawlessly. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Anyway, tell your friend to give Kimber a call and let them know about the problem. It may be a matter of nothing more than sending him a replacement part. Alternatively, they may suggest sending them the gun for a warranty repair. Either way, MY experience is that Kimber's customer service was pretty good. Maybe it still is.

Edited to add, here’s the original thread I mentioned: https://texaschlforum.com/viewtopic.php ... 70#p164070

TAM-
This was bought brand new
So I hope it hasn’t been around since 2009-2010 with bad parts in it
Thanks

[Teamless]

My first thought is an extractor issue, second thought I'd contact kimber!

Certainly 2 good thoughts, I am just trying to keep him from having to send a new gun off for who knows how long

It will be done if nothing else fixes this
Thanks

[Teamless]

Different ammo brand? Only time I ever had cycling issues with any of mine was in Colorado in 30° cold. But I'm pinning that issue on the powder since the same reloads ran great when I got back home.

Tried 2 different kinds of ammo, neither gave any different result

[Teamless]

Wife has a Pro Carry II in 9mm. I kept it pretty slick and fed it full power loads for the first few hundred rounds.
New gun or used?
Either way - clean, lube well, and try different kinds of ammo and different magazines.

Enjoy!
Jeff

It only comes with 1 mag, so we couldn’t test that theory- and he has new mags on order
Will test when they come in

New gun

Cleaned and lubed but will certainly do again

[flechero]

Man, I'm disappointed for him!

most never actually moved the slide.

How difficult is it to manually cycle the slide? It sounds like the barrel isn't unlocking properly. If that's the case, it's not a DIY fix.

Good luck!

[Teamless]

Man, I'm disappointed for him!

most never actually moved the slide.

How difficult is it to manually cycle the slide? It sounds like the barrel isn't unlocking properly. If that's the case, it's not a DIY fix.

Good luck!

Comparing my M&P 9mm full size slide (spring tension) to the Kimber slide (spring tension)
I’m not sure how to quantify the difference in racking -other than to say the Kimber is much stiffer to manually manipulate

I’m also very disappointed for him as he waited about 8 years to buy this and he has been wanting a Kimber for a long time
Too bad he waited until he felt a “need” with the Covid-19 situation and felt he needed protection, just in case things got hairy - now he has a very unreliable gun

I did lend him one of my M&Ps so he had something if needed

[flechero]

The springs in the ultra will be much stiffer than the M&P FS since it's a compact gun, so that's not a good omparison. I should have asked if you feel it catch as it unlocks at the beginning of slide movement. (first 1/4") When the slide begins to move back you'll see the barrel hood drop a little and then the chamber starts to become exposed... at the point the barrel drops, you'll feel an exaggerated tension [very briefly] as if it had an even stronger spring and then it will move as normal.

Hard to put thought into words sometimes!

ETA: manually cock the hammer before manipulating the slide as it will add even more resistance to the process... you just want to isolate the first 1/2" of movement to see if you feel it catch while unlocking. Remove the mag too, if it's in, as it will also drag.

[Zombified]

I've purchased many 1911's with this problem. The first thing I always try is letting the mags sit fully loaded for about a week. I have a Nighthawk doing this same thing right now. Sometimes the spring tension in the magazines is too stiff. If you try another mag, make sure you check the shape around the front of the magazines as sometimes they are shaped different and will ding up the ramp on the barrel. Make sure you lube the slide/frame as many complain of gauling on stainless/aluminum parts. Another thing I've done is rack the slide on an unloaded gun over and over to help everything set.

An easy way to check if the problem is the slide top is to check the slide stop for copper colored shavings on the inside.

From the Kimber manual: For proper break-in, fire 400-500 rounds of 230 grain (or heavier) full metal jacket, high quality factory-fresh premium personal defense ammunition. Many will claim otherwise, but I've noticed a difference with new 1911's after break-in periods.

I'm not an expert and not a gunsmith. I've just had good success with the above suggestions. (Kimbers, Sigs, Dan Wessons and Nighthawks)

Good luck!

[couzin]

Three things: Kimber used to put break in as 700 rounds in their owners manual (back to the range); the stovepipes are usually because of limp wristing (get that mitt up high and tight); Kimbers can be sensitive to some ammunition (especially hollow point with a large ogive). Had several Kimbers, great pistols, just feel better with Glocks as far as less switch manipulation and reliability.

[orionengnr]

I have had eight or nine Kimbers, two of them Stainless Ultra Carry IIs, still own one. Never had anything like that.
But I have had some troubles with smaller semi auto pistols. These days I load all mags to full, let them sit on the shelf loaded.
Lock the slide open, let it sit on the shelf that way. After 2-4 weeks, take to the range and see how it works.
If it is still finicky, repeat. May take the springs a while to take a set.
Worked for several 9mm and .380s.

I know that does not help much if it is his only pistol, but since you have lent him one he should be okay.
Just out of curiosity, did you fire it and experience the same difficulties? It is a light, short barrelled .45, and if he's a first time shooter...may be operator error (limp wristing). Just sayin'...