Thoughts on equipment

[mcub]

Still pondering, thanks for the previous input.
My thoughts are to reload more for the variety and tinkering side, aka for the fun/challenge of it.

Would any one be kind enough to give me their thoughts on this equipment combination? I cut and pasted this off of a web site. I'm still confused on the whole scale powder measure thing. Much to my dismay the price tag is about $600.00, with no scale or powder trower. Several of you have the initial cost, is $600 on the hi or low??

RCBS Trim Pro Manual Case Trimmer Kit
190644 Frankford Arsenal Cartridge Overall Length Gage
278665 RCBS APS Hand Priming Tool
306000 Remington Brass 44 Remington Magnum Box of 500
365718 RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set 44 Special, 44 Remington Magnum
414369 Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt
513567 RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Press
565099 RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center 110 Volt
620916 Nosler Sporting Handgun Bullets 44 Caliber (429 Diameter) 300 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Box of 100

[Mike1951]

I wouldn't go the same way and I think we can save you some money going in.

I would typically shop at Midway, but since I've got my new Natchez flyer handy, I'll use it where possible.

RCBS Trim Pro Manual Case Trimmer Kit

suggest Lyman trimmer with pilots $54.99

190644 Frankford Arsenal Cartridge Overall Length Gage

rather see you get your dial calipers, which you will need anyway. I bought several pair from Midway recently when they were on sale for $9.99. I also have a good pair that I bought 35 years ago. Both work. Spend $25-35

278665 RCBS APS Hand Priming Tool

This is an item where you can start out cheap and upgrade later. Your press should have a priming post, so you can probably avoid buying priming tool now. On the cheap, Lee for <$20.

306000 Remington Brass 44 Remington Magnum Box of 500

Buy 500 if you like, but you can get started with less. $18.17/100

365718 RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set 44 Special, 44 Remington Magnum

$39.37 I prefer Lyman T-C at $32.95 plus several dollars for a shell holder to fit .44.

414369 Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt

You can put off the tumbler for a while. I loaded several years without one. but you picked an inexpensive one. $56.95

513567 RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Press

Excellent press that will last you a lifetime, but you could start with less.
I would personally stay with your choice. Rockchucker $109.95 Lee presses as low as $20.

565099 RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center 110 Volt

You don't need this yet, maybe never. You need a deburring tool @$10 and Lyman primer pocket tools, maybe $20.

620916 Nosler Sporting Handgun Bullets 44 Caliber (429 Diameter) 300
Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Box of 100

You've chosen a very expensive bullet. Nosler 300gr JHP $17.49/100, Hornady $12.07/100

You WILL need a scale and a powder measure. Midway sells a Frankford Arsenal digital scale for $29.99 that will work.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

Otherwise, Lee has a beam scale for $20 and Lyman has a better one for about $45.

I consider the Redding to be the best powder measure at $103.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

Lyman or RCBS, about $75 and Lee about $30.

Primers are currently running $27-28/1000.

Powder about $20-22/lb. 7000grains/lb, so you can estimate how many rounds you can get by dividing 7000 by your powder charge.

I'm sure I have forgotten some items, but others will remind me. I was mainly trying to address your list.

This should get the discussion started.

[Mike1951]

Other items:

reloading tray to hold cartridges during process. @$5

powder trickler $10-15

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

powder funnel $3-4

Avoid the goop reloading lubricant that you spread on a foam pad and roll the case on it. And do NOT believe that you don't need to lubricate tungsten carbide dies! Buy a bottle of spray lube, @$8, and spritz the cases. I spread the cases in a single layer in an empty pizza box, spritz them, and then shake the box some.

An absolute must have is Lyman's reloading handbook. $18

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=823498

It will serve as your 'How-To' as well as providing reloading data. You will be able to find reloading data online or you can buy a booklet specific to >44 Magnum, but BUY THIS BOOK!

[mcub]

Thanks for very detailed breakdown, that took time and I DO appreciate the effort. You have helped me with one the most important parts, separating critical components, like the press, from the doesn’t matter parts.

I've found in previous Hobby's like Astronomy, Camera's, that going in with the "try it" gear means you must upgrade / replace stuff if you like the hobby, If you don’t like the hobby, quality gear is easy to unload. I've never regreted buying with the intention to stay in a hobby, but have regretted focusing funding on the wrong parts.

I take it from your reply that my assumption the Press, Dies, measuring parts fall in the quality / usability matters group, is this correct?.

That Tumblers and cleaning parts are in the "if works it's good enough" group.

I was a bit surprised at the case pre station, I'm a little un clear on what one actually does to prep a case?? I'm also confused by the deep divide in price; case prep items are either very expensive, or really cheap.

For reloading trays I though I could use the left over plastic trays that my magtech 45acp ammo came in, is there any thing special about a reloading tray, or will anything that holds the case upright do.???

Thanks

[mactex]

I was a bit surprised at the case pre station, I'm a little un clear on what one actually does to prep a case?? I'm also confused by the deep divide in price; case prep items are either very expensive, or really cheap.

For reloading trays I though I could use the left over plastic trays that my magtech 45acp ammo came in, is there any thing special about a reloading tray, or will anything that holds the case upright do.???

Thanks

Cases will expand in length with each firing. Trimming brings the case length back down to specs. Also, if you use something like the Lee Factory Crimp, having all the cases the same length will ensure that all the cases are crimped correctly.

Case prep involves trimming the case, if necessary, then deburing the case to remove shape edges and burrs created during the trimming process. Finally, each case needs to have the primer pocket cleaned to ensure that the new primer will seat properly.

You don't have to have the RCBS Trim-Mate to do case prep, but it will make the job easier if you do a quantity of cases.

You can reuse the trays that the ammo comes in to save a few bucks. I personally find them a bit too tight in terms of space though. My big hands and fingers make a mess of things from time to time. MTM sells a nice tray for about $7 which will hold almost any size of cartidge. I picked up two so that I can rotate the cases during the reloading process to help prevent skipping a step or double charging a case.

Just a few cents worth of my thoughts.

[Mike1951]

I take it from your reply that my assumption the Press, Dies, measuring parts fall in the quality / usability matters group, is this correct?.

A qualified yes. Although the reloads with cheaper equipment would likely be fine, I recommend going ahead and investing in a good press, dies, and powder measure because they should last you forever. I have a Dillon RL550B progressive and I have a 50 year old Texan. If i had to give up one, the Dillon would be gone and I would keep the Texan.

I have several scales, 2 or 3 beam types, a digital, and a large Ohaus Dial-A-Grain that would cost quite a bit if it was still made. If you don't like the $30 digital, you will learn that through use and can always upgrade.

That Tumblers and cleaning parts are in the "if works it's good enough" group.

Cases will discolor but aren't likely to tarnish enough that they won't work in a revolver. So I consider tumblers a luxury. As I said, I went years without one but now have three. You can do without for awhile if you choose to.

I was a bit surprised at the case pre station, I'm a little un clear on what one actually does to prep a case?? I'm also confused by the deep divide in price; case prep items are either very expensive, or really cheap.

EVen the case trimmer wouldn't have to be included at first. If your new brass is within specs for length, it will be some time before the straight wall cases stretch enough to need trimming. After trimming, you use the hand held deburring tool to smooth inner / outer edges of the case mouth.

For reloading trays I though I could use the left over plastic trays that my magtech 45acp ammo came in, is there any thing special about a reloading tray, or will anything that holds the case upright do.???

I see no reason why not. A reloading tray is most important when charging 50 cases with powder. You drop each charge as you move down the row of cases. It's all organization. What is critical at this stage is observing the powder level in each case. It is possible, especially if you're distracted, to drop two charges in the same case with possibly disastrous consequences. You will find that not all powders have the same bulk. Bullseye, a powder you probably wouldn't use in your .44 mag, uses charges so small that double drops couldn't easily be seen. Others, like 2400, a very good powder for your .44, will almost fill the case, making it very obvious.

Do you have an area that you can set aside for your reloading?

You will need to mount your press to a table that won't bend or flex from the force you exert on the press handle. The heavier the table, the better to prevent the table tipping forward. That said, if you have limited space there are portable stands or you can improvise.

Keep asking until you're clear on all this. I'll be glad to answer. There are many here that are more knowledgeable than myself. You'll start getting some expert help as they start replying.

Take care,

[mcub]

Don’t laugh but I just realized I had a big misunderstanding, I just realized the Brass is reusable. If that’s correct, using existing brass I could load the premium 300gr bullets for the 44 mag for about .45 cents each??
The premium hunting loads (AKA 300gr solids and 280 JHP) are around $25-$30 per box of 20. That’s one forth the cost???? . Loading the 180 gr with a light powder load to keep the velocity equal to the 300 I get .35 cents if I figure right??

Are those numbers reasonable or am I way off base. Even compareing to the 45ACP magtech FMJ's, I could beat GanderMountain by about 1.00 a box of 50.00

I was thinking would it be better to buy the equipment first, the powder and primers and bullets after reviewing the loading manual???

Is there a place to get the know limits for Ruger revolvers??

Suddenly those lever actions .44 I’ve always wanted don't look so expensive to own.

Oh, If your wondering why I'm pricing the 300gr rounds, It is a scoped revolver, as I plan to hunt (someday) at the 50-75 yard range. In what practice I've had with the revolver it is very apparent bullet drop is varies for more than with rifles, at 1000ft/sec a 100 ft difference is 10%, as opposed to being only 3% for a rifle round. Add the drag of the fat bullets, well look at the graphs of the 44 mags ballistics and you’ll see what I mean. The 300’s don’t drop as much, because they don’t slow down as quick.

[phddan]

"I was thinking would it be better to buy the equipment first, the powder and primers and bullets after reviewing the loading manual??? "

1) Get the equip. and manual(s) first.
2) Get the loading recipe from the manual and the powder manufacturer, and
the bullet manufacturer.
Most will have info online.
3) Get your bullets and powder in small quantities at first, to do your work
ups. When you find the most accurate recipe, then you want to buy in
quantity, for cost savings.

Since you are using this ammo for hunting, I would definitely suggest getting some case prep tools. Consistency is the key to accurate hunting loads, and without case prep, accuracy suffers.

About loading trays. The standard cartridge holders from the manufacturers usually won't hold a shell bottom first. The small 50 hole trays are great for small load work ups. But I found it so much easier to have more room between the shells when processing, so I made my own with scraps of plywood. I have different sizes, that hold from 68 shells, to 264 shells, with the holes 3/4" apart. I put the trays on my lap when seated at the press, which puts the shells a little closer to the work.

Dan

[Venus Pax]

I recommend you find an instructor/mentor in this endeavor. Hands-on instruction teaches you what the books can't.

[mcub]

Thanks for all the Ideals and advice.

I've purchased most of my set up and fixed a work area in the garage.

I would add they I ended up with a mix of products based on every one suggestion, principal centered around the RCBS Rock Chucker. I did make one mistake; I purchased the APS primer tool for the convenience and have discovered finding primers for it to be a bit of a challenge. If I see any newbie looking for purchase advice I think I will advice them against the APS tool. I think it is a great concept, but if you can’t get supplies at a cost effective way (no 20-25 Hazmat fees) it’s a pit useless.