Looking for information and discussion

[sensei]

I haven't reloaded in years. I dug out all my old equipment and set it up in the garage this last weekend.

I used to reload for 30-06, 243, 30-30, .44Mag, .357mag, and .38 special. I want to start reloading for .45 acp & 9mm if cost effective. Bought the dies for the .45 last week.

Questions:

All my reloading manuals are from around the last 1970's.
Hornady third edition, Speer number 10, etc.. I assume the information is still good???

I used Winchester primers and Winchester brass. I have a bunch of brass saved up.

Can't find my old notebooks with personal reloading data.

Only powder I can remember for sure is Unique. Any better these days?

I guess I'm just looking for thoughts and ideas.

Could use suggestions on .45 loads. (powder, suggested loads, etc.)

Thanks


sensei

[HighVelocity]

I stopped reloading about 1993 but still have all my stuff. I don't think it's a good idea to use those old manuals though. Powders change, specs change, etc. I'm not saying throw away your old books but rather buy a current book and compare.

[Charles L. Cotton]

Since we're both in Friendswood, why don't you come over? I'll show you my reloading room and we can visit a while.

I primarily load 45 ACP, 40 S&W, .357 Mag and 38 Special (primarily for teaching). I haven't loaded 9mm yet, but I have a fair amount of brass. I load far more 45 ACP than any other caliber.

As for cost savings, I load copper-plated 230 gr. RN 45's for about $85/1,000, not counting brass. (45 ACP brass will last forever, unlike .357's.) I don't buy virgin brass. When I need more, I simply buy a 1,000 rds of green box Remington 230 gr FMJ at $170/1,000. (Not the nickle plated stuff.) With 45 brass running about $100/1,000 plus shipping, it doesn't make sense to buy virgin brass. I did send an email to some fellow that is selling once-fired 45 brass for $22 to $25 per 1,000, depending upon quantity. I haven't heard back from him yet. At that price, I’ll probably order 10,000 rds, if it sounds like good brass. (Stay away from A-Merc.) I have a lot of S&B 45 ACP and it’s good brass. However, on the first reloading, about 5% crush a primer. The S&B primers aren’t crimped in like military brass, but my guess is the primer pocket must be a hair small.

Powder: I've read that Unique has been reformulated and is much cleaner these days, but I haven't tried it. WW 231 is a very popular powder for 45 ACP and I still use it. I've also experimented with Clays, but have a hard time getting the IDPA power factor with 200 PSWC's. Clays is certainly a clean powder.

Well, that's enough rambling for now. Let me know if you want to get together. If there are any other folks in the area thinking of getting into reloading, I'd be happy to have you join us either at our home in Friendswood, or at the PSC range. Maybe I can talk the wife into making us some burgers.

Regards,
Chas.

[sensei]

I think it would be great to get together. Either house would be fine or at PSC. The more the merrier as they say.

I only have a single stage reloader. An old Hornady 0-7. Very outdated I'm sure. Most of my other equipment is RCBS. Scales, etc. I think I still have everything I need to reload. Just need to clean it up and set it up.

I have about a thousand .45 brass cases on hand right now. Probably twice that much 9MM brass. I will have to buy powder, primers and bullets as I have none on hand. Where is the best place to buy?

I'm thinking of joining the IDPA, so I will probably be burning a lot more ammo soon.

sensei

[SRVA]

I have been reloading a lot of 9mm, some 38 spl, 44 spl, 45 auto and 40. I have been using mostly HP38 or WW231 and they work fine in all these calibers. Recently started experimenting with Unique in the 9mm.

Regarding the older reloading manuals, I wouln't count on them being correct. A lot of the powders have been reformulated over the years and this can get you into trouble. I'd get a new guide, get a manual from the powder manufacturer, or use the M.D. Smith reloading pages on the internet. I got into serious trouble using old loading data with a reformulated powder.

Like Charles, I have use clays and really appreciate that it is clean and seems to shoot softer than some other powders. I have used it successfully in the 40 S&W with 180 gr. bullets. I prefer HP38 over 231 as it tends to shoot much cleaner and have less smoke.

[HighVelocity]

I am curious why anyone would reload for 9mm when the factory ammo is so cheap? At Walmart Blazer Brass 9mm is $4.27 and Academy sells Blazer Alluminum for $3.86 per box.

[SRVA]

I can reload 9mm for less than $70/thousand. When my wife and I shoot over 50,000 rounds per year, the savings are enough to make it worthwhile.

[HighVelocity]

I can reload 9mm for less than $70/thousand. When my wife and I shoot over 50,000 rounds per year, the savings are enough to make it worthwhile.

Does that $70/1000 include the value of your time? You must have a pretty awesome setup to crank out that much ammo.

When I had time to reload I was using an RCBS Rock Chucker, single powder measure and a Lee Autoprime. Mighty slow going but it was relaxing.

[Kalrog]

Using the Blazer price above, it is only $77.20/thousand. Now, I bet the stuff you load is better quality, but for firing that much I would rather just pick up a case and shoot it all. Save the reloading for the calibers that really do save money. Like .44Mag.

Although reloading can be a hobby by itself and that is fine by me! I just don't think reloading for 9mm is worth it when my handgun eats Blazer just fine. If I didn't want to shoot the aluminum cased stuff, then I might think about reloading for 9mm.

[dws1117]

I don't know if others fit in the same boat, but for me I find reloading to be almost as fun as the shooting. It is very relaxing. Of course my shooting/reloading volume doesn't even come close to that of SRVA.

Someone mentioned the value of a person's time. I feel that reloading, even 9mm (even though I don't load 9mm), is a much more productive use of time that say planting you your tushie on the sofa in front of the television. Not to devalue watching TV as sometimes it is important to be a vegetable.

For .45ACP I mainly use W231. I have also used Clays and love the cleanliness and soft shooting qualities.

[SRVA]

Let's see...200 rounds a day, 20 minute investment in time, getting ammunition tailored to my needs and my gun and having fun at the same time...Life is good!

[Baytown]

As far as using the old manuales, I say, it doesn't matter. I just would not start out at max load.

I still use a manual that says their next edition will have data for the "new and exciting .44 magnum." None of my guns have blown up yet. That is not to say I don't have more books though. I probably have 20 books with load data, and I use them all at one time or another.

Glenn

[Warhorse545]

And with the Internet a lot of the data can be gotten from the various powder makers online. And if you have a specific set up you would like to try with a powder, send an email to the company that makes the powder listing what brass, primers and bullets you plan to use and they will send your the data. I have had great luck with getting load data for some of the odd rifles that I own and reload for. 7.5 Swiss for one. It does not beat a good reloading manual, but they are happy to provided the data to you via email.


I still use Unique for my .45 ammo. The new states it is 50% cleaner, It might be some, but it is still dirty :). But I get my best results with it so I still use it.
I have to clean the pistols anyways, so it does not bother me.

Stacey