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I believe from other posts that the slide not locking into battery is caused by the recoil springs. Someone else posted that they changed the spring and the new one overcame the resistance to chambering and the problem went away.

I have two Kimber Pro Carry's bought back in 2000. With one of them, I seem to recall a few hot cases hitting my forehead before I had the ejector replaced. The other never had that problem and the ejector has never been replaced. I've never had the problem since, and I've put over 5,000 rounds through both since then. I'd call Kimber and ask them what they think. Best of luck to you, hope you end up happy with the results!

Get yourself a Wollf extra power recoil spring in the 18-18.5 pound range it should cost about $10.00 if that doesn't solve your ejection and battery problem then a trip to Kimber is in order.

Kimber's customer service has a less than stellar reputation, good luck.

A surefire fix is to trade that Kimber for a Springfield, S&W, STI, or even a Taurus they all work right out of the box.

Break in periods on 1911's is the manufacturers way of saying, "We didn't get all the rough spots out of the gun so, you need to go through the hassle of doing our work for us at $25-30 a box." A well finished 1911 should run 100% after the first 100 rounds and it shouldn't have more than one hiccup in that time.

Did you have your V8?

texasag

ejector, replace recoil spring at about 800rnds. the amount of money spent on kimbers that are not 100% out the box amazes me cause you can find good deals on STI's, which IMO is a whole lot better.

Winston33 wrote:If you are shooting a 4 inch, I highly reccomend a new recoil spring from Wolff springs. This will solve the classic new Kimber flu (fail to feed, fail to return to battery, brass in the face). It did for mine! From what I have read, the factory spring is of lesser quality and performs a little under par. This is also widely shared remedy on 1911forum.com

Ok, so I've ordered the Wolff Extra Power recoil spring. Hopefully, it'll be here in a few days. Once I get it out to the range again, I'll post any changes in performance. Thanks for the input!

It's the ammo. It neve happens to me with Winchester White Box 9mm. But my range was out of the WWB last rrip and they sold me some Remington garbage and the ejects hit me in the forehead every time. Thge same thing happened to my wife with her Sig p232 to the point where she didn't want to shoot anymore that day. And, she had her first failure to feed with her Sig with the Remington loads.

Believe me it's the ammo.

red2000vette wrote:It's the ammo. It neve happens to me with Winchester White Box 9mm. But my range was out of the WWB last rrip and they sold me some Remington garbage and the ejects hit me in the forehead every time. Thge same thing happened to my wife with her Sig p232 to the point where she didn't want to shoot anymore that day. And, she had her first failure to feed with her Sig with the Remington loads.

Believe me it's the ammo.

might have been in your case, but not everyone has the exact same gun as you

I had a Springfield 1911 GI that did this. It would eject the casings straight at my forehead. I had a friend shoot it and it ejected correctly, so I thought I was doing something wrong. I shot his Springfield and it ejected correctly. Shot mine, and it did the same damn thing. I tried different stances, different grip on the gun, everything I could think of and it still did it. The gun had over 1,000 rounds through it so I knew it wasn't a break in issue, and it wasn't an extractor problem, it just wasn't meant for me. :( SO I got rid of it and picked up an XD.

Well, shot a hunnerd rounds through my Kimber Pro CDP this weekend (incidentally, went to Bass Pro, not the BT ).
every now and again I had the "spittin' Kimber" effect, and lemme say, If I hadn't had a hat on, I prolly would have little crescent moons in my forehead today. I noticed it happened when I loosened my grip a bit (you know, to keep my hands from shaking).
so, what did I learn from this? The reason it spits the brass directly at your forehead is because the slide is perpendicular to your head when the brass ejects. it's your grip. in the words of Ron White, "It can happen to you, it happened to me."
And, I need to work on strengthening my grip, or I'll never do IDPA to any degree of efficacy. stronger muscles in the hands and forearms won't wear out so quickly, and thusly my hands won't shake, and thusly I won't loosen my grip to accommodate the aforementioned shaking hands thusly resulting in a .45 shell to the noggin. thusly.

Kerbouchard wrote:Nope, sounds like you need to have your extractor adjusted.

I agree.

Well now, I've got to say that the Wolff recoil spring seemed to do the trick! I took it out to the range this weekend and didn't have ANY shells hitting me in the face! Also, it seemed to help with putting the slide into battery! I did however have three FTE's. All in all, I would recommend Wolff recoil springs for your applications as well!

The bottom line to me...why would a person spend so much coin on a weapon that needs adjustment or modification outta the box when there are sooooo many other weapons that function fine without incident? I do not own a 1911, but I have the bug. All this talk about $1000.00 weapons that need work before they are even broken has got me a little hesitant to plunk my money down. Even if it is minor things like another magazine or a main spring. Those are all thing that you paid an extremely high price tag for and apparently they are not up to par. That is just un-nerving to me. Especially when some one is considering it for a carry weapon. I want one bad, but I wouldn't spend ten dollars on something if it can not perform its job outta the box. Its just an opinion, but its mine.

You hear a lot about malfunctioning Kimbers.

I have two and they are perfect.

I would like to have more.

Some of us don't mind messing with our preciouses.

Anygunanywhere

I have 2 kimbers, eclipse 2 and CDP custom 4 inch ,700 rounds each.
only 2 brass to the head with the custom.