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I use Mil-comm's MC25 cleaner degreaser to, well, clean and degrease slide, frame, barrel; plus it smells nice. Then use a tiny bit of the MC2500 on the parts that should be oiled and TW25B grease applies with a hobby style paint brush to the slide, rails, barrel lugs, guide rods, and a swab with grease down the barrel, then a clean patch. Rack a few times and wipe off the excess.

I've found cleaning is a lot easier with the Mil-Comm TW25B, the crud just doesn't seem to want to stick anymore. Makes the Kimber CDPII and the Sig238 slide smooth and free.

SQLGeek wrote:Thanks for the great info everyone. TAM, why do you use the Otis system for your semi-auto rifles and a cleaning rod for your bolt rifles?

I think I'm going to give that Slip2000 a try. Do you order it online or is there a retailer that carries it?

I've just been using CLP to lubricate the slide on my M59 and it seems to work fine. Should I consider using a grease instead?

Regarding the Otis system, I just find it easier on my semi-auto rifles to pull the cleaning instrument through than push it through because A) access to the chamber end with a rod is clunky on the M1A and makes pushing a rod through and awkward thing; and B) because the distance from where the rod enters the AR15 receiver to the chamber makes for a lot of rod flexing. Being able to feed a flexible coated steel cable through from the chamber and then pulling it out through the muzzle is just a lot easier.

I use a rod on my bolt rifles because it is easy to insert a bore guide into the action and fix it in place and then push the rod through from the chamber end. I NEVER push a rod through from the muzzle end of a rifle, and I never push a rod through from the chamber end without a bore guide. I can't think of a better way to accidentally damage the crown or the rifling at the muzzle without being aware of having done so, and consequently throwing your accuracy off, and even the flash hider on the end of an AR or M1A barrel won't protect you entirely from that possibility. You should ALWAYS run your cleaning instruments through from the action end of the barrel, regardless of the rifle, and you should never use a cleaning rod that isn't coated with something to protect the rifling. The only possible exception to cleaning from the muzzle end that I can see is with a muzzle loader.

I order all my SLIP2000 products from their website (http://www.slip2000.com). I use their solvent, lubricant, and rifle grease products. I also have their copper remover on hand, but I rarely ever have to use it because after you use their cleaner and lubricant for a while, nothing really sticks to the barrel. Whatever is fouling it just pushes out with a jag during the regular cleaning process. Otherwise, you use it just like you would use Hoppes #9 or Shooter's Choice, and it takes more than one patch to clean a barrel. The other thing that is good about it is that it doesn't dissolve your brass cleaning instruments, and it doesn't harm finishes or plastics, etc.

Just so nobody accuses TAM of thread necromancy, I found this thread I had started and went to book mark it at the bottom. I found a little feature called "bump this topic" which evidently changes the date and time of the last post on the thread to the current date and time.

At any rate....since it's already at the top again...what does everybody like to use for cleaning?

For most of my handguns and my AR's, I use RemOil and Remington Bore Solvent (if it is even needed). But for my Desert Eagle and my precision bolt gun, I use the Tetra line of products. Tetra Lube and Tetra Grease. The Grease is especially nice for the bolt gun action and the action on the Desert Eagle. The grease is also really nice if you have a weapon (like your carry gun) that is exposed to any type of moisture on a regular bases. The grease makes a nice coating that protects the metal and/or finish of the gun from any sort of corrosion. I treat my carry gun to a very light coat every week to two weeks, especially in the summer (I carry IWB). And like RemOil, the Tetra Lube is also available in spray cans as well as the bottles.

I use Hoppe’s #9 for cleaning and Mil. Spec #130A Lubriplate for lube on all my guns. I used the same combo 45 years ago in the military and still use it. Old habits die hard… and it works well too,

I use M Pro 7 cleaning and lubricant on all my pistols, it seems to work great and it does not have a strong odor like some do.

I've always used Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's lubricating oil on all of my handguns...and was planning on using it on my new AR. Is there anything wrong with that?

Brake kleen brake cleaner and/or Breakfree CLP to clean, Breakfree CLP and Tetra grease to lube. I bought some Froglube oil and grease, does anyone have any opinions on them?

Everyone has their preferences for chemicals, but the best thing I ever bought was a good brass JAG in each caliber I have... the tight fit makes the patch work way more effective and cuts my cleaning time for barrels, to less than half the time.

flechero wrote:Everyone has their preferences for chemicals, but the best thing I ever bought was a good brass JAG in each caliber I have... the tight fit makes the patch work way more effective and cuts my cleaning time for barrels, to less than half the time.

That is a good point, I keep meaning to pick one up for my pistols. I use the Otis system to clean my M1 and Mossberg and with their patches, you can get a very tight seal in the bore. If I were to switch to a cleaning rod though, I'd definitely be using jags.

I use Slip2000 products for initial cleaning (either via Ultrasonic with 725 Gun Cleaner or with patch-run Copper Cutter and Carbon Killer).

I used to use CLP, Ballistol, and Gunzilla, but I've since switched all my lubrication work to Froglube CLP. I don't think the others are bad, just that I've found GREAT results with Froglube _and_ it smells so much nicer than anything else.

Thanks for the lead OldCannon. A local police supply carries Frog Lube so I may give it a try. Do you use the paste, liquid or both?

flechero wrote:Everyone has their preferences for chemicals, but the best thing I ever bought was a good brass JAG in each caliber I have... the tight fit makes the patch work way more effective and cuts my cleaning time for barrels, to less than half the time.

It seems like most of them are plastic now.

SQLGeek wrote:Thanks for the lead OldCannon. A local police supply carries Frog Lube so I may give it a try. Do you use the paste, liquid or both?

I use both. I use the paste where I would normally apply grease, and the liquid for normal lubrication. For friction surfaces, I slop on the liquid with a nylon brush, then blast the hair dryer until everything is toasty. Works great.

One nice side effect I've noticed -- cleaning seems to work a lot easier with Froglubed products.

Good to know, thanks!