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Don't shoot the clay after it's left the confines of your skeet field. The first time I shot skeet, I took a really long shot at a right left bird... about two "fields" down from where I was shooting. It's a no-no I found out. (I did break the clay though).

I'd be interested in a local DFW Trap/Skeet outing. It's been almost a year since I shot the old 1100 last and I'd love to get it out and take it to the field.

AndyC wrote:If there are no markings anywhere that you can find, you can always use a micrometer to measure the inside diameter of the barrel at the muzzle to determine how much choke it has:

Cylinder: 0.729"
Skeet: 0.725"
Improved Cylinder: 0.720"
Modified: 0.711"
Full: 0.693"

I have a Baikal IZH27M O/U that measures .682 on the top and .699 at the bottom barrel.
What would you call that? Surely it's not full choke on both barrels

thanks andy, i actually wanted to get started skeet shooting and then eventually graduate to dove hunting but did not know what to do.... thanks again!

Interesting. This gun was bought new off the rack by a guy that shoots skeet competitively. He kept this for a backup & loaner gun.
It only has 2-3/4" chambers, so it's not suited as a duck or long-range gun.
Why would someone order a gun like this?

Rex B wrote:I have a Baikal IZH27M O/U that measures .682 on the top and .699 at the bottom barrel.
What would you call that? Surely it's not full choke on both barrels

If you have measured correct - it is full choke on the bottom and extra full (turkey) on top - which would be very unusual unless the barrel was specifically for turkey hunting. The barrels should be marked with their respective constrictions near the receiver on the barrels. not sure if Baikal uses english ("full" etc) or sets of slashes (/ , // , etc) to identify constriction.

couzin wrote:

Rex B wrote:I have a Baikal IZH27M O/U that measures .682 on the top and .699 at the bottom barrel.
What would you call that? Surely it's not full choke on both barrels

If you have measured correct - it is full choke on the bottom and extra full (turkey) on top - which would be very unusual unless the barrel was specifically for turkey hunting. The barrels should be marked with their respective constrictions near the receiver on the barrels. not sure if Baikal uses english ("full" etc) or sets of slashes (/ , // , etc) to identify constriction.

I measured twice with a digital caliper and got the same readings.
Checked all around the muzzle and breech for markings, found none. I'll check the breech area again tonight in better light.

Why would someone specify long-range chokes with just 2.75" chambers?
Seems to me that 3" or even 3.5" would be more suitable.
Just doesn't add up.

Rex B wrote:Interesting. This gun was bought new off the rack by a guy that shoots skeet competitively. He kept this for a backup & loaner gun. It only has 2-3/4" chambers, so it's not suited as a duck or long-range gun. Why would someone order a gun like this?

So anyone you loaned it to wouldn't be able to hit squat...!

Rex B wrote:Why would someone specify long-range chokes with just 2.75" chambers?

Not necessarily 'long range' - the tighter constriction place more pellets in smaller area, so, in the case of turkey, a tight pattern will essentially turn a turkey out like a light with the head shot and less damage to the meat. But also, if one IS intending long(er) range such as for high flying or skittish late season birds (not turkeys but other upland birds), then this choke constriction could work (not for steel shot though - ie. ducks etc.). The argument over 2-3/4, or 3, or 3-1/2 inch rounds goes on. I have used 3 inch in the past, but there is no difference to me with shooting the 2-3/4 inch rounds and I prefer them for everything - skeet, trap, and birds.

AndyC wrote:
Ideally we want a shotgun with Cylinder or Skeet chokes - it's "harder" to hit a small high-speed target at close range with the (progressively) tighter chokes such as Improved Cylinder, then Modified or even a Full choke; it can be done, of course, but a beginner would find it frustrating.

After studying the pic there, do you mean it would be "easier" to hit with an Improved Cylinder...? or am I reading it wrong?

Also, would you happen to know how much chokes cost and where is the best place to find them?

TLE2 wrote:Don't shoot the clay after it's left the confines of your skeet field. The first time I shot skeet, I took a really long shot at a right left bird... about two "fields" down from where I was shooting. It's a no-no I found out. (I did break the clay though).

Something must have been wrong with the clays machine or wind got it to have gone that far. Skeet field is a shade over 42 yards (126' 9" exactly) from high house to low house and the target path is set by regulation to land (no wind) at a marker 60 yards from the window of the respective house from which the target is thrown and where it passes through the hoop set at 15 feet above the field.