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I bought a Ruger Takedown not even a week ago and I'm already pondering my next purchase. I want a revolver but nothing too expensive, under $600. I don't know anything about them and I have never fired one. What I know is I want SA/DA, 2-2.25" barrel and stainless. I can't get used to the look of a revolver without a hammer. It's kind of like a dog without a tail, poor thing has nothing to wag. I don't know even know what caliber. I have a 45acp and 9mm semi-auto already so same caliber wouldn't be a bad idea, but definitely open to a different caliber that won't break the bank with ammo costs. I saw a Taurus 605 but I don't know anything about them. I've heard Taurus had issues in the past with their semi-autos but I haven't heard much about their revolvers. I'd take any input regarding your experiences regardless of the maker.

Match your Ruger takedown with a Ruger SP101 (5 shot 38/357) or a Ruger GP100 (6 shot 38/357). Both come in stainless and the length you want.

The SP101 is under your 600 limit. Not sure about the GP100, it may be at or slightly over.

They are solid built revolvers and soak up the recoil of hot loads much better than the air weights or other snubbies.

used j-frames run around $350-400.

I saw the SP101 so I'll look more at that one too.

J-Frame? I've seen these references K, J and I think N. What does that all mean?

urnoodle wrote:I saw the SP101 so I'll look more at that one too.

J-Frame? I've seen these references K, J and I think N. What does that all mean?

J frames are the smallest frames for S&W revolvers. They get larger as you go deeper into the alphabet (K, N)

urnoodle wrote:I bought a Ruger Takedown not even a week ago and I'm already pondering my next purchase. I want a revolver but nothing too expensive, under $600. I don't know anything about them and I have never fired one. What I know is I want SA/DA, 2-2.25" barrel and stainless. I can't get used to the look of a revolver without a hammer. It's kind of like a dog without a tail, poor thing has nothing to wag. I don't know even know what caliber. I have a 45acp and 9mm semi-auto already so same caliber wouldn't be a bad idea, but definitely open to a different caliber that won't break the bank with ammo costs. I saw a Taurus 605 but I don't know anything about them. I've heard Taurus had issues in the past with their semi-autos but I haven't heard much about their revolvers. I'd take any input regarding your experiences regardless of the maker.

I also, do not like the aesthetics of a revolver without the exposed hammer. I never thought of it that way, but it is kind of like dog without a tail.

I wouldn't buy anything other than a .38SPL or .357Magnum. For me a .44Spl would be an option, but the choices are too limited. I would stick with the Rugers like AEA suggested or a S&W.

I would recommend the S&W Ladysmith. Not because it's a "woman's gun", but because it meets all of your requirements, but it's a well built gun and you can grips other than pink. Another consideration is that you can find a large variety of holsters.

If I didn't have my Colt revolvers I would probably buy a Ladysmith myself.

G26ster wrote:

urnoodle wrote:I saw the SP101 so I'll look more at that one too.

J-Frame? I've seen these references K, J and I think N. What does that all mean?

J frames are the smallest frames for S&W revolvers. They get larger as you go deeper into the alphabet (K, N)

I never noticed that.

A S&W 638 combines the best of hammerless, hammer and lightweight. Check it out. It's not fun to shoot but it will do the job.

AEA wrote:Match your Ruger takedown with a Ruger SP101 (5 shot 38/357) or a Ruger GP100 (6 shot 38/357). Both come in stainless and the length you want.

The SP101 is under your 600 limit. Not sure about the GP100, it may be at or slightly over.

They are solid built revolvers and soak up the recoil of hot loads much better than the air weights or other snubbies.

I carry an SP-101 .357 and/or an S&W model 38 recessed hammer J-frame "Airweight" .38.

Jim

G26ster wrote:J frames are the smallest frames for S&W revolvers. They get larger as you go deeper into the alphabet (K, N)

That is entirely not what I thought it meant. I always thought it had to do with the shape of it but I could never, in my mind, get the shape of the gun to fit the letter.

WildBill wrote:I also, do not like the aesthetics of a revolver without the exposed hammer. I never thought of it that way, but it is kind of like dog without a tail.

I wouldn't buy anything other than a .38SPL or .357Magnum. For me a .44Spl would be an option, but the choices are too limited. I would stick with the Rugers like AEA suggested or a S&W.

I would recommend the S&W Ladysmith. Not because it's a "woman's gun", but because it meets all of your requirements, but it's a well built gun and you can grips other than pink. Another consideration is that you can find a large variety of holsters.

If I didn't have my Colt revolvers I would probably buy a Ladysmith myself.

I kinda like the pink grips as long as they aren't pepto bismal pink I'll check into that one too. I will continue to carry one of my 1911s but I think a revolver would be a fun backup or range gun.

I haven't seen the 638 so I'll look at that too. I also like the s&w 686 but it's a bit out of my budget. Based on these recommendations I should stick with Ruger or S&W and forget about Taurus.

If I was smart I'd finish getting the parts for the AR lower I've had for almost a year but the revolver has now surpassed it on the list.

It is hard to beat .38/.357 so I would recommend that caliber as well. A lot depends on whether you are planning to carry it regularly. If you are not specifically looking for a carry gun, I would recommend staying away from the lightweight snubbies with the short barrels and look at the GP100 and S&W N frames. Those are great revolvers that will see you through many range days without punishing you too much. Of course, if you want a carry piece, you will probably want something lighter. I personally have a Ruger LCR that I carry every once and again and it is great for those lazy, run to the supermarket days, but at the range, my .44 magnum with the 6 1/2 inch barrel and Hogue grips is more comfortable to shoot. Good luck with your search!

You can find a S&W 66 used for $500-$600. They are one of the finest revolvers you can buy in my opinion and you can get them in 2.5" and 4" bbl form. S&W 65 will be a little cheaper with fixed sights but same fit and function as the 66.

I have a 4" 66 and it's a little heavy on the belt but no more than a 1911, it's a daisy to shoot with 38sp loads and I shoot the smallest groups with it versus any other pistol I own.

Since you asked, Taurus revolvers are good guns. They are S&W clones and hold up well to use. I have a 2" 85 UL and a 605 PLY the 85 is a 17 ounce .38 and the 605 is 19.5 ounce .357. both are carry a lot shoot a little guns. If you are looking for a revolver for shooting at the range I would encourage you to get a K frame or L frame S&W or Ruger GP100 with a 4"barrel. The snubby is very hard to shoot well and they aren't a lot of fun due to blast and recoil.

urnoodle wrote:I can't get used to the look of a revolver without a hammer. It's kind of like a dog without a tail, poor thing has nothing to wag.

I know it is not stainless, but I think my "tailess dog" is pretty sweet! Works great for my needs and fits my hand like a glove, stows just about any where I wanna hide it and goes BANG every time! (Thanks Doc!)