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SQLGeek wrote:With the changes to the way NFA items are handled, is there as much of an advantage to using an NFA trust these days if you're going to be the only one using the items in your household?

Scott pretty well answered your question above, but some other points to ponder. Are you always going to be the only one in the household to shoot/use them? No chance of a relative or friend wanting to borrow them years from now? When you're out of town are the always going to be locked up/secured such that no one else could get to them, even a wife/GF? I guess my point is we never know what the future holds, trusts allow for more flexibility down the road than an individual filing.

Don't get me wrong, individual filings have their place, but a trust alleviates many of the worries and allows more wide enjoyment if you have shooting buddies/family that could have even accidental access to them down the road. Nothing stopping anyone from creating a trust with only themselves on it for now. You could buy a bunch of toys now on a trust with just yourself, then years from now amend the trust to add folks that you want to have access.

The reason I bring this up is folks often forget to that move an NFA item from an individual into a trust will cost you another $200 and a wait (who knows what the future will bring for times). I've known a few folks that have gone that route only to regret it later. Most bought a single can or two as an individual and then started a trust for the remaining items. Some will use the argument that individual filings are taking less time, but that's a short term view of the situation. I'd rather it take an extra month or two to get the long-term benefit of having them in a trust.

Again, just a few things to think about when making a decision. Ultimately you have to make the decision that's best for your situation.

Scott B. wrote: FWIW, trusts are also taking much longer than individual applications.

Seeing right around 6 months right now. Not great, but a
definite improvement over just a couple years ago. It’s all relative though.

I've got a few suppressors (8) now and below are some of my thoughts.

1) Go with a reputable/big name company for your first couple cans. Nothing worse than getting a boutique anything, only to lose support shortly thereafter because the maker closed up shop. SilencerCo, Rugged, Dead Air, SureFire, YHM, Sig, etc should all be looked at, along with many that I'm missing I'm sure. Talk to other can owners (as you're doing here) and see what brands keep popping up.

2) Get a dedicated rimfire can and a .30 cal rifle can as your first two. As cool as shooting a suppressed pistol may look, it's nowhere near as rewarding as shooting a suppressed .300 BLK or a bolt action .22lr (the first time you shoot a bolt action .22 and the firing pin striking the round is louder than the round going off you'll giggle like a schoolgirl). The only place that a pistol can really shines in on an SBR'd rifle. I have an SBR'd CZ Scorpion that is a blast.

A dedicated rimfire can is a must as you'll shoot it 5x more than you'll shoot any of the others. No, I mean that. This is for several reasons:

A) Standard velocity (sub-sonic) ammo is cheap and plentiful.
B) They're relatively cheap; $300-400 gets you a great rimfire can capable of many smaller calibers (including .22lr, .22WMR, .17HMR, 5.7, etc).
C) They're great for introducing new shooters to guns because you can do so without the crack of the bullet and need for hearing protection.
D) Rimfires (especially .22lr) are inherently dirty and you'll want to be able to take apart the can to clean it. Most all rimfire cans these days are user disassembly friendly. This isn't the case with many rifle cans, though more and more are being made that you can take apart. Also, avoid aluminum rimfire cans if you can. Should you ever need to use "the dip" to remove excess leading you'll want stainless or similar. (Please read up on the dip, it's not something I recommend, but is an option if needed).
E) They're universal, almost all threaded rimfires feature 1/2x28 threads, this means you can swap guns/cans at will without needing adaptors.

As for the .30 cal rifle can, you may only have a 5.56 right now, but one of these days you might decide on a .308, or even a .300 BLK upper for your AR. The .30 cal can is more versatile all around, not only that but it will suppress your current AR better than a dedicated 5.56 can. You'll trade a little weight for this versatility, but for my $ it's worth it. Once you have a .30 cal can, if you still want to get a dedicated 5.56 can, knock yourself out, but don't limit yourself on your initial purchase.

3) Once you've knocked out a rimfire and rifle can, you may eventually want a pistol can. And why not, we all want to look like an assassin (note: the only thing I've killed recently was the remaining birthday cake from my daughter's party ). Just like the .30 cal can, you'll want to go with a .45 can for versatilities sake. Some have replaceable end caps that you can swap between 9mm and .45 caps. With any can the closer to the OD of the round your cap is the more gases the can will trap, and as a result you'll see more sound reduction, though just how much of an improvement is debatable.

So those are my thoughts, worth exactly what you paid for them, but some things I hope you'll ponder. Any way you go shooting suppressed is addictive. Once you do it you'll have a hard time going back to a public range with those heathens who bang away without thinking of those around them.

Depending on where you're at I'll bet there are a couple members here that would gladly meet up with you to discuss and let you try out some cans.