Hog Hunter's -- Your help please.

[TeXJ]

I'll put my bid in for a SKS. 7.62x39 and accurate! I'll let ya try mine on some hogs

[fishman]

Good luck, hope you get several.

[flintknapper]

.223/5.56 will get the job done with the right bullet and proper shot placement, but shot angles will be limited. The 6.8 or .308 would be better IMO.

Personally, I use a .458 SOCOM….but it is purpose built since I battle these wretched creatures year ‘round.






If you have time….read this, there might be something in it that will help:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=449721" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And some friendly advice: In the future, NEVER use the word “eradicate” and Hogs… in the same sentence, it simply isn’t possible.

Good luck to you.

[texasmusic]

Flint, how do you like your laser? I've been thinking about finding a 25+mW unit but I've read on other forums that they won't hold zero. (cheap chinese stuff).

[flintknapper]

texasmusic wrote:

Flint, how do you like your laser?

I don't use it that much....but when I DO get opportunities for quick additional shots its just the ticket. I have mine set up such that after the first sighted shot I can just roll the AR over about 10-15° in order to look around the scope...but still maintain a cheek weld. Then with both eyes open...light up a hog, press trigger, repeat.

I've been thinking about finding a 25+mW unit but I've read on other forums that they won't hold zero.

Many of them won't hold Zero, that is true. I had to modify the internal assembly on mine to get it to stay put, but it doesn't budge now. Mine is 25mW...and honestly is brighter than necessary.

One thing you'll want to know about green lasers though...they don't work when temps get cold (typically below 30° F.)

[texasmusic]

Thanks flint,

I've been looking at some recently, I think I found your thread on AR15 while I was searching actually I read through that. I have found a few on GB recently that have actual windage knobs that use flatheads, with markings around the perimeter and claim to be click adjusted.



I'm well aware that this is knock off product. Made in china etc... but I'm just looking for something that may come in handy if I ever build one of my lowers into a pistol. Does this look like the adjustment on yours?

[flintknapper]

Thanks flint,

I've been looking at some recently, I think I found your thread on AR15 while I was searching actually I read through that. I have found a few on GB recently that have actual windage knobs that use flatheads, with markings around the perimeter and claim to be click adjusted.


I'm well aware that this is knock off product. Made in china etc... but I'm just looking for something that may come in handy if I ever build one of my lowers into a pistol. Does this look like the adjustment on yours?

No, the adjustments on mine are simply set screws, but the most important feature is that they are placed more than 90° apart (about 120 actually). The strength of that...is more of the internal fixture is supported (less chance of it moving around under recoil). The downside to it...is that any adjustment to one axis affects the other, it is difficult to zero.

In my case...I found that the rear of the module was allowing the most movement. By substituting larger O.D. O-Rings I was able to correct this. If you get your laser zeroed how you like, you can take some silicone and fill in the unsupported area around the front of the module. You will still have a good amount of adjustment, but that area is no longer subject to random movement from recoil. Though it appears it might apply to the rear of your laser.

I would not be too concerned with the idea that laser was made in China. There are both good and bad products that come out China. In the case of green lasers....you would be hard pressed to even find an American made laser module/diode. The tubes and caps on most of the Chinese stuff are not really that bad either, its the adjustment features that suck.

Make sure any laser that you purchase has an IR filter....else you run the risk of seriously damaging your eyes.

[NcongruNt]

That's a fine-looking rifle you have there flint. I especially like the piggy graphic on the side of the lower.

I've considered the .458 for an AR build, but I don't have enough purpose to justify the cost right now and parts are still relatively limited. I'm leaning towards .300 BLK for the build I have planned for next year, just because of the parts interchangability with my 5.56 AR. If the market opens up enough for that caliber, I think that's what I'm going to do.

In the meantime, I'm limited to developing my own heavy 5.56 loads. I have a 70 grain soft point load that chugs along at 2740fps that should pack a significantly improved punch over standard loads.

[TX0303]

I've considered the .458 for an AR build, but I don't have enough purpose to justify the cost right now and parts are still relatively limited. I'm leaning towards .300 BLK for the build I have planned for next year, just because of the parts interchangability with my 5.56 AR. If the market opens up enough for that caliber, I think that's what I'm going to do.

Is this build for hunting? I would think a 6.8SPC would be a better choice for hunting. The .300 BLK was designed for a lot of punch up close out of short barrelled guns. Energy falls off at distance and probalby is no better than 7.62x39.

[NcongruNt]

I've considered the .458 for an AR build, but I don't have enough purpose to justify the cost right now and parts are still relatively limited. I'm leaning towards .300 BLK for the build I have planned for next year, just because of the parts interchangeability with my 5.56 AR. If the market opens up enough for that caliber, I think that's what I'm going to do.

Is this build for hunting? I would think a 6.8SPC would be a better choice for hunting. The .300 BLK was designed for a lot of punch up close out of short barrelled guns. Energy falls off at distance and probalby is no better than 7.62x39.

Yes, this is for hunting. This would be for relatively short-range work - typically under 100y and nothing really above 200y. While I agree that 6.8 SPC seems to be ballistically superior to .300 BLK in many ways, it falls short for me in the parts interoperability area. I am leaning towards .300 BLK because I can retain compatibility with my 5.56 bolts and (PMAG) magazines. My plan is to build a rifle to maximize muzzle velocity. I have no desire to build an SBR or shoot heavy subsonic loads through it with a suppressor. It would be a 16" or 18" barrel with the carbine-length gas system. I load my own rounds and would work to tune my loads to maximize muzzle velocity.

The other AR-platform alternatives (6.8 SPC, 6.5 Grendel) all require specialized bolts and magazines. If that weren't a concern and I were going on spec alone, I'd probably opt for 6.5 Grendel, as its performance is superior to both .300 BLK and 6.8 SPC, particularly with effective range and flatness of trajectory.

Really, I'm not really decided on anything yet. While I was writing this update, I looked at .458 uppers, and the prices seem fairly reasonable, compared to the last time I looked them up. Maybe I'll go that route. I've got 2 stripped lowers and I've only figured out what exactly I'm doing with one of them, with a while to decide on the other.

[Carry-a-Kimber]

I ordered a 300 BLK barrel from Midway lastnight....here we go again.

[speedsix]

.223/5.56 will get the job done with the right bullet and proper shot placement, but shot angles will be limited. The 6.8 or .308 would be better IMO.

Personally, I use a .458 SOCOM….but it is purpose built since I battle these wretched creatures year ‘round.






If you have time….read this, there might be something in it that will help:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=449721" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And some friendly advice: In the future, NEVER use the word “eradicate” and Hogs… in the same sentence, it simply isn’t possible.

...nevermind a rifle bearer...you need an AMMO bearer...

Good luck to you.

[The Annoyed Man]

If it's near Fort Worth I will bring all the rifles we need.

Wish you could, but it's deep in the piney woods of East Texas.

I have a car.

I'll bring the "Hog Mauler"

[Dave2]

If it's near Fort Worth I will bring all the rifles we need.

Wish you could, but it's deep in the piney woods of East Texas.

I have a car.

I'll bring the "Hog Mauler"

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing

[APynckel]

You could build up a black gun in 6.8spc. That will take 'em down real good too. Then later on if you still have a hankerin' for a 5.56, just buy an upper and swap them out.

I would personally recommend 6.5 Grendel now that it has gone SAAMI.

However, if you're set on an anti hog gun, may I point you at my build?



18" SPR Match barrel from White Oak Armament, Wylde chamber, m4 feedramps, headspace matched bolt.
A3 Upper (with M4 feedramps) / lower of your choice
Lower parts kit of your choice (I swapped out the grip and the trigger on mine, went with a magpul MIAD grip and a Timney 3# trigger)
Magpul PRS fixed stock
Yankee Hill Machine Rifle Length forearm
Glass of your choice
Harris bipod

My build will run .4 MOA groups all day long with handloaded 77gr matchking rounds at 100 yards (pretty decent for an 18" barrel).

Other alternative calibers I would recommend for hogs; .300 blackout, .450 bushmaster, .458 SOCOM

Personally, I have a .45-70 lever gun that I will, from now on, use on all my hog eradicating adventures. 405gr projectile running at 2200 fps will knock down anything on the North American continent.