A few of my pistols have long trigger pulls. And I like them Much Shorter.
A gunsmith can modify them to be shorter and lighter, right?
"In general", about how much do they charge for that, please?
Gunsmith trigger shortening modification
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Re: Gunsmith trigger shortening modification
Handguns with long trigger pulls are designed that way on purpose and for good reason. IMO, it is better to obtain a handgun designed with a shorter pull.daddySEAL wrote:A few of my pistols have long trigger pulls. And I like them Much Shorter.
A gunsmith can modify them to be shorter and lighter, right?
"In general", about how much do they charge for that, please?
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I find I'm MUCH more accurate with a shorter/lighter trigger pull at the practice ranges. (as far as self protection, it would make no difference at 10 ot 15 feet, but I'm talking about range target of 15 or 20 yards).
If not shortening a trigger pull, can't they lighten the pull pressure enough to not move me off the bulls eye, which I tend to do with long hard trigger pulls?
If not shortening a trigger pull, can't they lighten the pull pressure enough to not move me off the bulls eye, which I tend to do with long hard trigger pulls?
Last edited by daddySEAL on Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Again, IMO, better to learn fundementals of shooting first. A properly trained shooter should be accurate enough at those distances for combat with any of the standard double-action trigger pulls. Lightening the pull if your accuracy is off does not address the problems.daddySEAL wrote:I find I'm MUCH more accurate with a shorter/lighter trigger pull at the practice ranges. (as far as self protection, it would make no difference at 10 ot 15 feet, but I'm talking about range target of 15 to 30 yards).
If not shortening a DAO trigger, can't they lighten the pull pressure enough to not move me off the bulls eye?

But to answer your question, yes a good gunsmith can make your trigger smoother/lighter.
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"Speed is Fine, but accuracy is final"- Bill Jordan
Remember those who died, remember those who killed them.
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From what you've said, I think that you'd like the 1911 trigger. The series-70 guns can be tuned to have light, crisply-breaking triggers with a minimum of overtravel. It takes more work on the newer 1911-style guns, but it's possible to get a very good trigger on them as well. The 1911s and older S&W revolvers are renowned for their light, clean triggers.
Glocks, like other guns, need some overtravel for reliability and safety. For a carry gun, you can lighten the trigger pull to an acceptable 4 1/2 pounds or so by switching out the standard connector for a Glock 3 1/2 pound connector, and by doing some hand polishing of the connector and trigger bar. The springs and other internal parts should be left stock.
Practicing the basics-grip, sight alignment, breath control, and trigger squeeze-will make it possible for you to shoot good groups, even with a trigger that is creepy or stiff.
Glocks, like other guns, need some overtravel for reliability and safety. For a carry gun, you can lighten the trigger pull to an acceptable 4 1/2 pounds or so by switching out the standard connector for a Glock 3 1/2 pound connector, and by doing some hand polishing of the connector and trigger bar. The springs and other internal parts should be left stock.
Practicing the basics-grip, sight alignment, breath control, and trigger squeeze-will make it possible for you to shoot good groups, even with a trigger that is creepy or stiff.
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Just to emphasize, if you go this route, use a genuine Glock 3.5 lb connector. Some of the aftermarket connectors are questionable.AV8R wrote: . . . For a carry gun, you can lighten the trigger pull to an acceptable 4 1/2 pounds or so by switching out the standard connector for a Glock 3 1/2 pound connector, and by doing some hand polishing of the connector and trigger bar. The springs and other internal parts should be left stock. . . .
Polishing the internal metal parts can be easily accomplished with either an appropriate stone or a felt wheel on a Dremel tool, charged with Simichrome metal polish. (Beware of overdoing it and rounding off things like the engagement surface on the connector, or - if you use a stone - putting a notch in a rounded surface where the metal is intentionally folded over.)
I'd avoid using aftermarket parts on the Glock, especially if they have fancy names . . . my rule of thumb is the more impressive the name, the less impressive the performance. ("Tactical Ninja Extreme Lightning Dragon Fire Strike" would be a brand to avoid like the plague!)
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Thanks guys,
AV8R,...I've already got nine pistols of different makes and models.
So, even if the 1911s are as good as everyone says they are...I think I don't "need" another pistol for a good while.
I'm wanting the ones I have(that don't already come that way) to operate a little lighter on the trigger.
thanks,
dS
AV8R,...I've already got nine pistols of different makes and models.
So, even if the 1911s are as good as everyone says they are...I think I don't "need" another pistol for a good while.
I'm wanting the ones I have(that don't already come that way) to operate a little lighter on the trigger.
thanks,
dS