Slow cylinder

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Mithras61
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Slow cylinder

Post by Mithras61 »

I wanted to show this one off a bit. It belongs to my Mother-in-Law, and is a Model 36 Chief's Special that my Father-in-Law bought for her in 1967.

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The only thing wrong with it as far as I can tell is that the cylinder doesn't spin very freely at this point. To the best of my knowledge, it has had 150 rounds through it. I've tried cleaning it as best I can without disassembling it, and it did get a little better when I put some CLP up the cylinder pin, but it still only makes about two turns if it is spun.

Anyway, I don't think the picture does it justice (no, the trigger isn't rusty - it's my wife's camera acting weird), but I thought you revolver guys might have some opinions on what tp try to free up the cylinder a bit.
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HighVelocity
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Post by HighVelocity »

That is a beautiful piece and a fine collectible S&W. It sounds to me like it just needs a really good cleaning (complete disassemble).
Taking a revolver apart though is not recommended unless you know what you're doing and are already familiar with the inner workings. Take it to a qualified gunsmith, ask for references.

Of course, unless you plan on shooting it a lot, I'd just do a basic cleaning and leave it alone.
I am scared of empty guns and keep mine loaded at all times. The family knows the guns are loaded and treats them with respect. Loaded guns cause few accidents; empty guns kill people every year. -Elmer Keith. 1961
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Mithras61
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Post by Mithras61 »

HighVelocity wrote:That is a beautiful piece and a fine collectible S&W. It sounds to me like it just needs a really good cleaning (complete disassemble).
Taking a revolver apart though is not recommended unless you know what you're doing and are already familiar with the inner workings. Take it to a qualified gunsmith, ask for references.

Of course, unless you plan on shooting it a lot, I'd just do a basic cleaning and leave it alone.
Thanks, HV. It's far more beautiful than my poor camera skills show.

I don't know if I'm comfortable leaving it alone, as M-in-L uses it for home defense. She's not a very good shot, but she'll scare Jesus into any BG that dares come into her home even if she doesn't hit them. I've tried to coach her a little, but the trigger pull is too heavy for her to operate easily & that really affects her aim.

I guess maybe the solution is to get an easier to shoot revolver for her and save this one for my son.
AV8R

Post by AV8R »

The cylinder may have a buildup of hardened,oxidized oil, or "varnish", due to age and poor preservation. If you're not in a hurry, you can remove the stocks, place the pistol in a plastic container, and cover it with Marvel Mystery Oil. Let it soak a few days or even weeks. MMO is a slow-acting but very effective varnish solvent and lubricant, and will not harm anything in the gun. It will penetrate and loosen carbon deposits and fouling as well. The upside is that a varnish film is a good moisture and rust blocker, so the cylinder and axle are probably in good shape. When you reassemble the pistol, a light coating of gun grease under the stocks will keep the area in contact with the wood rust-free.
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Post by Thane »

If the cylinder spins freely when open, but resists turning when closed, it's possible that you've got a powder and lead residue built up on the cylinder face, forcing cone, or both. Examine the gap between the cylinder face and forcing cone; if you can't see light from ANY angle, you've likely got a buildup.

If the cylinder doesn't spin freely when the revolver is opened, then it's likely the fault of dirt and powder fouling within the cylinder's axis of rotation, around the ejector rod. Short of disassembly, a couple drops of a good cleaning agent down in the axis should clear that up (I'm fond of Breakfree CLP, but there are plenty of other good ones).

Hope this helps. :grin:
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phddan
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Post by phddan »

Nice piece :smile:
If you don't feel comfortable tearing it down yourself, I would take it to a referenced smithy. The smithy could probably lighten the trigger pull a little to help your MIL out.
A fine 50 year old revolver like that deserves a good tune up.

Dan
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Mithras61
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Post by Mithras61 »

Thank you all. Sounds like I should drop some more CLP down the ejector rod & take it to a smith either way. The smith can lighten the trigger and if the CLP doesn't clear up the cylinder not turning freely he can fix that too. Thanks, all.


Now the next question... does anyone know a good smith? Is Sportsman Guns & Ammo a good place for repairs & such?

I seem to recall someone here talking about them before, and they are reasonably near...
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Post by drinks »

Kano Kroil is the best and fastest acting penetrating oil I have tried, I believe I got mine from MidwayUSA.
NRA, TSRA, CCRKBA, SAF, JPFO, Def-Con, GOA and CBA.
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Mithras61
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Post by Mithras61 »

I has a gunsmith (thans again to GregTheHand) who worked on the snubbie today (I was surprised, but he wanted to do it today, so who am I to argue).

Turns out that the ejector rod was slightly bent & he straightened it out and also lightened the trigger somewhat. He said he could lighten it more, but it would require replacement springs he didn't have in stock. He also suggested that we might want to consider a Taurus for MiL instead & save this one as the collectible it is. I will have to have a chat with MiL before we settle on that, but he has one he carries that is quite sweet & he says he can get them quickly...
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Post by gregthehand »

drinks wrote:Kano Kroil is the best and fastest acting penetrating oil I have tried, I believe I got mine from MidwayUSA.
Kano Kroil is VERY good stuff. If anyone needs it my company stocks it at there stores. They are located all over Texas. If you need more info just shoot me a PM.
My posts on this website are worth every cent you paid me for them.
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