AR build

[southboundp]

Have been thinking about building at AR for a while, but just got the bug BIG TIME after reading through some of the posts on here. I have found some of the parts I want to use, but need a hard resource as to what parts I absolutely HAVE TO HAVE in order for the gun to go boom. Here's what I know so far. Please add to this list. Accessories/modifications will be added later, just need the needs.

Complete lower (or stripped lower with parts kit)
Complete upper (or stripped upper with parts kit)
Bolt/Carrier assembly
Barrell Kit (leaning towards 16")


I know I have left out quiet a bit. Let your list start..............now. Thank you.

[stroo]

To some degree whether or not you need parts depends on definitions. I have always understood a complete upper to include upper receiver, barrel, bolt, the whole works. You seem to be using "complete upper" differently.

It also depends on how far you want to go. When I have built, I started with a stripped lower, a lower kit, stock and a complete upper that included everything. So really what I did was build the lower and snapped in the upper to complete it. I did it this way because I understand the upper is tougher to build and wasn't sure I was quite up to it.

With the parts you listed you are basically doing one of two things. Either you are taking a complete lower and marrying it up to a complete upper for a completed rifle or you are building an upper including barrel and bolt and mating it up with a complete lower. Again depending on your definition of "complete upper", the only part you seem to be missing is the stock although some complete lowers come with a stock.

[southboundp]

I think I am on the road to having part of my questions answered (thank you stroo). I justneed to know if the different manufacturers parts (uppers/lowers/buttstocks.....) are compatible with one another. I know to keep .223 parts with the like and so on, but will a bushmaster upper be compatible with the double star lower (just using those names for examples, am not committed on using them). Thank you.

[Rex B]

Parts is parts, pretty much.

The only incompatibility I know of is some early Colt lowers had a different diameter takedown pin, but you won't run into that. Everything is standardized. you can mix and match to your heart's content. Even barrel swaps are almost child's play compared to any other platform.

My advice for a first build is buy the upper assembled, complete with bolt carrier group and charging handle. That way you won't have to buy tools, and you can be assured it will be safe.

Build and they will come. More AR's that is. They are habit-forming.

[longhorn_92]

What tools do you need in order to properly build an AR15? I have a complete upper coming and I will be building the lower (stripped lower and lower kit).

For all of us new guys (building AR's, that is)....

[age_ranger]

Building a lower is a piece of cake but I prefer to buy the uppers completed. These two sites will give you great options for both.

http://www.marksarmory.com/6573.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.jsesurplus.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You only need a complete upper and a complete lower. If you get a complete kit, they usually do not come with a stripper lower as you see here: http://www.jsesurplus.com/del-ton16inch ... plete.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and you can choose to have it assembled as well. Not hard to get into an AR cheap, it all boils down to the quality of the parts you put into it. You can build one for $600 or $6000........I recommend Magpul accessories.

[age_ranger]

What tools do you need in order to properly build an AR15? I have a complete upper coming and I will be building the lower (stripped lower and lower kit).

For all of us new guys (building AR's, that is)....

Basic hand tools like a few punches, hammer, stock wrench and patience are enough to build the lower. You can use a punch on the stock nut if you don't mind marring it a bit. The bolt release is the toughest part to install without marring the lower. Cover your lower with some tape and install it carefully to prevent scratching it up.

[Rex B]

Lower Parts kit:

Installing the front takedown pin on the lower is a bit tricky.
The spring-loaded detent pin will launch itself into a parallel dimension before you can blink an eye.

So here's what i do:

Get a short (2" or so) rod the same diameter as the takedown pin. I think it's 1/4", but I don't have one to look at right now.
Drill a hole through it about 3/4" from the end, big enough (3/32" ?)for the detent pin to pass through.
Now get a plastic bag and work within the bag.
Insert the rod in the hole for the lower, line up your drilled hole with the spring/detent hole.
insert the spring and detent pin, compress just below the rod, and push the rod in a bit to retain the detent.
Now push the takedown pin in (properly aligned with the detent notch), pushing your drilled rod through so the detent clicks into the takedown pin.

This will save you a lot of grief.

This and other great information came from AR15.com.
Lots of good sticky How-Tos in the "Build it yourself" forum.

[jroberts1968]

AR's are real easy to build, Kinda man barbies. I am in Denton, if you want you can use my AR tools to build it and I can walk you threw it. drop me a PM.

[southboundp]

Just ordered my stripped lower by Stag. Guess I'm committed now. Keep you posted in the coming weeks what the progress is. Next step, LPK and assembly.

[Rex B]

Yep, gotta support those trigger guard ears.

I generally use a pair of pliers to squeeze the rollpin through, then finish up with a punch.

[Chuck TX]

Building an AR lower is very easy. About the only thing that can be troublesome until you get the hang of it are the roll pins.
Tools you need to do the stripped lower are:

Solid flat surface to work with
Set of punches
Light hammer
Screwdriver
CAR stock wrench (if you're putting on a collapsible stock)
Painter's tape if you want to tape areas off when you do the roll pins
I also use moly grease for some of the parts like the trigger
Occasionally use vice grips w/ leather over the tips to get the roll pins started

If you're going with a collapsible stock, I'd recommend getting a mil-spec receiver extension (aka buffer tube). They're strong, the thread are the correct depth, and it has a much larger variety of available stocks to choose from. Not just a mil-spec sized tube (there are some that are milspec in size only), but get one from BCM or track down an LMT or VLTOR one.

Read this thread on assembly - and when they say support it so you don't break off the ears on the receiver, they mean it.

Don't be this guy:

Was that a to spec 7075 lower?

[southboundp]

Update:

Parts I have received so far:

Stag stripped lower
DPMS Lower Parts Kit (assembling today)

Parts that are arriving Moday via UPS 2nd day air:
DPMS A1 Panther Lite 16 Inch Upper 5.56/.223 (assembled, headspaced and test fired)

Parts still to order:
Buttstock assembly


Almost there.